replaced head gasket now it does not start!

[Jeff G 78]

I'll put $20 on timing 180° off. Pull the cam cover when the dizzy points to #1 and check that the #1 cam lobes are both pointing up like rabbit ears.

[mn91]

^^^^This is what my timing is at. Can anyone verify if it's correct?

^^^^ This is where my my distributor timing was at when it wouldn't start.

^^^^ This is what I had to turn my distributor to for my car to actually start! so how bad is my ignition timing? Am i off a teeth? and what do you guys think about my mechanical timing? thanks

[Jeff G 78]

Does it run right with the distributor turned into the position in the last pic? If so, the problem has to be the oil pump shaft. If the cam timing was off, the engine would make very good power. Everything *looks* right per the pics, but we haven't seen the distributor shaft. Can you pull the distributor out and take another picture with the engine at #1 TDC. We are looking for a good pic of the distributor end of the oil pump shaft. That will tell us if it's off a tooth or more.

Did you change ANYTHING else other than the head gasket? When you pulled the head, did you set the #1 to TDC before you started? If so, was the #1 piston fully up when you pulled the head? I ask because the crank dampers are known to fail, making the timing marks useless after the two halves of the damper twist.

[tamo3]

Blue wrote tips for readjust timing.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47335&p=410403&viewfull=1#post410403

I think 11:25 is right angle.

Also, I highly recommend to have valve clearance adjustment. I had difficulty to start engine, but after valve clearance adjustment, my engine become so much good condition and easy to start.

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/valveadjust/index.html

Kammy's step-by-step procedure for Fit and Not-Fit is so useful.

[ozconnection]

The camshaft timing is off.

Your picture shows the cam to be very advanced. I looked at the timing number 'one' near the chain and the timing mark there is between link plates, not on the link plate. Your cam is one tooth too advanced.

With your dissy adjusted the way it is in the pic, your oil/distributor spindle is off proper timing too.

Many years ago, I did my dads cylinder head when I was just a kid. He had a 240K (with an L24) and it was my first time doing a headgasket. Did what you guys did with the cam, one tooth out too advanced. It was a buggar to start too, from memory, and had to muck around with the dizzy timing until, bingo, it fired up. The engine, this far advanced had awesome low speed torque but zero power after 4K rpm (stock camshaft profile). My dad loved what I did, he couldn't believe the difference. The engine suited his driving style perfectly and he used to tow a half cabin 16 ft fibreglass boat and a 70HP Evinrude with it...effortlessly.

Tony D on hybridz is aware of this 'trick'...and has a similar story to tell. Change it if you want to, but get that ignition timing spindle in the proper position bro!.

Edited October 4, 2012 by ozconnection

[Diseazd]

I think OZ is "Dead On"! The timing mark is too far to the right of the notch, therefore the cam is one tooth too advanced. Your distributor seems to be OK though, because you set it at 11:25 with the piston at TDC compression stroke that should be correct. That's why they put timing marks on timing chains.....to get things lined up correctly. You always want to rotate your engine 360 degrees to make sure there is no valve to piston interference in case of missing a tooth before firing up a new engine.. IMO

Edited October 4, 2012 by Diseazd

[mn91]

Thanks for all of the help guys! I played with the car again on my free time and i started it with the distributor like how it was on m last pic and i hard a weird metal to metal clapping noise... I think my cam is so advanced that there is piston to valve interference. so i stopped it and turn my cylinder by hand and couldn't hear/feel anything.. maybe i wasn't turning it fast enough? I need to fix my cam timing and i hope i did not do to much damage to the valves.. can my valves be badly damage even if im just advanced a tooth? Crossing my finger it's just the timing chain tensioner making that noise!

To jeff G: yes i did make sure that it was at TDC before i pulled the head. And no i did the head gasket and the timing chain so that's a brand new chain. I also got my head shaved and new valve seals since the head was already off.. and i'll pull the distributor and take a picture this weekend. With work and school, All i have is the weekend to play with her. :/

And I want to thank everybody for the help! I really appreciate it.

[Jeff G 78]

The fact that you heard noise is bad. If the cam timing was off, you might have had piston to valve contact. If that's the case, you will have bent valves and damaged pistons. Hopefully, that's not the case.

[Diseazd]

mn91.......Not sure, but my guess is that one tooth is disaster for an L series engine (valve to piston contact). You probably need to pull the head again, get the head repaired (new valves), then when you put her back together, pull the front cover and align the marks so the cam is timed correctly to the pistons before you put her back together. I don't believe you will need new pistons with a one tooth miss. IMO :pirate:

Edited October 4, 2012 by Diseazd

[madkaw]

Not sounding good. A compression test will tell you if you have damage. Just because there is no noise now doesn't mean you escaped damage- you might have just clearanced your valves with your pistons

[bpilati]

GET SOME OIL ON THAT VALVE TRAIN!!! It look dry as a bone, even the cam lobes look like they have wear marks on them. I'd fix the cam sprocket and get the timing right.