Accelerator Stuck???

[NCdatsunZ]

Hi,

I've got a 1972 240z with round top SU's that sat for many years.

I put all new fuel lines, fuel pump, plugs and wires, distributor cap, points, and did the Z Therapy carburetor rebuild kit.

Last night I got the car to crank and sit at idle long enough for me to adjust the timing and fiddle with the fuel air mixture settings.

Now When I crank the car it acts as though the accelerator is stuck to the floor even though the floor and linkage are not.

Is my Z haunted? What should I do?

[olzed]

The butterflies in the carbs are probably stuck open. Has the return spring fallen off the linkage?

[NCdatsunZ]

I have never really worked on a car with carburetors before so sorry for the inexperience but which spring is the return spring? The two long springs that attach to the linkage are still there.

If it is the two long springs that go from the linkage to below the carburetors, then they are still there.

Edited January 10, 2013 by NCdatsunZ

[NCdatsunZ]

Problem Solved!!!!!!! Part of the choke linkage was getting stuck on another screw. But now....

The car starts and idles fine with the choke on, but when I take the choke off, the engine dies.

[SteveJ]

Okay, so now do a little searching on how to set up SU carburetors.

Also consider buying the videos from http://www.Ztherapy.com. Site member Bruce Palmer is the salesman for them.

Come on, Bruce . This is your cue to jump in!

[Captain Obvious]

The car starts and idles fine with the choke on, but when I take the choke off, the engine dies.

How long are you keeping the choke on for? Another way to ask the same question... How quickly are you thinking your car will run well without the choke?

The reason I ask is that in my experience it has been "minutes" before the engine runs as desired with no choke at all. Are you thinking that you can start it and then immediately push the choke off and expect it to run with no choke?

By the way, any performance issues with the carbs could potentially be traced back to problems with the float bowl level. Did you ever verify your float bowl level using the clear tube method?

[NCdatsunZ]

How long are you keeping the choke on for? Another way to ask the same question... How quickly are you thinking your car will run well without the choke?

The reason I ask is that in my experience it has been "minutes" before the engine runs as desired with no choke at all. Are you thinking that you can start it and then immediately push the choke off and expect it to run with no choke?

By the way, any performance issues with the carbs could potentially be traced back to problems with the float bowl level. Did you ever verify your float bowl level using the clear tube method?

Not very long. Will leaving the choke on for a few minutes foul the plugs?

I am not familiar with the clear tube method, any links?

[NCdatsunZ]

I let it run for a few minutes then very slowly took the choke off and it ran!!!

giving it any more than a tiny bit of throttle makes it die.

After it warmed up, it sprung a leak. :disappoin It was leaking from somewhere behind the rear carb. I'm assuming it's the water passageways. I tried to plug them up but I probably did something incorrectly. Any instructions on how to plug it up properly?

[Captain Obvious]

Sounds like you were just expecting too much too quick. One hurdle at a time... If you have to use a little choke until it's up tp temp, then do so. Worry about fouling the plugs later. If you aren't billowing black clouds of eye burning fumes, then I wouldn't worry about it.

If it dies when you hit the throttle it's probably running lean. However, if you aren't yet up to temp with the engine, then it will compound the issue. Think about it this way... The colder the engine, the richer it wants the mixture. Where do you have your nozzles set right now, and why did you put them where they are?

As for the clear tube method, here's a description and a pic:

a) Pull the black rubber fuel line off the bottom of the bowl and drain the bowl

Replace the black rubber line with a clear tube that is long enough to loop back up against the bowl body without kinking.

c) Fill the carb bowl back up again using a funnel and another piece of tube connected to the fuel inlet nipple.

d) As you pour the fuel in, the float will start to rise. When the float rises far enough, it will close off the float valve, and the carb will stop accepting additional fuel.

e) Measure the bowl level and compare to the specs on picture EF-46 of the FSM