Flywheel: Fidanza vs Competition Clutch

[DoctorMuffn]

Competition Clutch Flywheel for $246 shipped from VR Speed Factory

Competition Clutch 69-72 Nissan 240Z 2.4L STU Flywheel 2-588-STU

"[Competition Clutch Flywheel] stamped with 4140 plate with 2000 ton pressure at 1260 degrees

CNC machined and balanced to O.E. specifications"

Fidanza Aluminum flywheel $350+ shipped

Fidanza Steel flywheel clutch $372+ shipped

"Fidanza high performance Steel Flywheel differ from the competition by being not only durable but serviceable. Another reason they out perform the competition is that the body is milled from a 1045 billet steel slab. The 1045 is a high carbon steel. It’s incredibly strong and can withstand the rigors of the most extreme engines, drivers and conditions. Of course all Fidanza steel flywheels include a serviceable 1045 steel insert for the clutch to ride on, which is attached using the highest quality aerospace fasteners."

Fidanza Aluminum flywheel with Exedy clutch for $435 shipped from Ultrarev on eBay

Exedy Clutch Fidanza Flywheel 240Z 260z 280z 280ZX | eBay

Why priced so differently? How is the manufacturing quality of CC's products? Is Fidanza better?

What's the difference between those quoted sections for their respective flywheels?

Has anyone had stripped bolt hole issues with the Fidanza aluminum flywheels? Has anyone experienced a seating issue with the stock clutch to the Fidanza flywheel due to stock bolts being too long causing poor clutch adjustment and engagement?

Thanks

P.S. I'm not interested in aluminum over steel. I'd prefer a stock setup (even a stock machinable flywheel) for my mostly stock Z. The most intriguing purchase for me at this point is the CC flywheel due to affordability.

More information for those who are interested in motives:

I've had an unsprung 6 puck disc on a stock flywheel for the past 4 or 5 years to only end up with a well worn, unmachinable flywheel and a thrashed input shaft bearing that roars something hideous in low gears. The clutch looks fine as it no longer was the weak link protecting more expensive, harder to service components. Maybe It chattered too much during engagement. Maybe I'm a bad driver. I'm ready to stop re-engineering what's worked in these cars for over 40 years until I do my engine swap to my Lexus 1UZ 4.0 liter. I will need this stock setup for the next 5-10 years until the project begins. I'm looking for longevity and reliability.

Any input is greatly appreciated.

[jmortensen]

No specific info, but some general suggestions: Avoid puck clutches sprung or not sprung until you actually need one. Best way to test is to drive at say 40 mph in 4th gear, push in the clutch and rev to 5k rpm, and drop the clutch. If the motor slowly matches speeds with the trans, you don't have enough clutch. If the engine instantly slows to match the road speed, then you're OK. If you run a stiffer pressure plate with a mild clutch disk you can still hold down a lot of power and you won't trash the flywheel, trans, and the thrust bearings in the engine. If your puck clutch starts to chatter a lot it will eventually cut a groove in the flywheel that will make it impossible to engage smoothly and which ends up making it harder and harder to get the car moving. A friend of mine with a 200SXT had to do a full engine rebuild due to the damage caused by a puck clutch. At the same time I was running ~240ish whp (more than his car most likely) on an ACT pp with a stock disk, hooked up just fine for autox and track days, etc.

If all things were equal and you're racing, I'd go with the lighter of the two flywheels, which appears to be the CC. You can feel the difference between a 12 lb flywheel and a 10 lb flywheels, and the lighter option is quicker to rev, easier to heel toe. If this is just a street car commuter type of thing, then I'd go heavier as it won't want to constantly be either accelerating or decelerating when you're cruising down the freeway. My 12 lb flywheel was easy to manage in stop and go even with Mikunis.

[DoctorMuffn]

Thanks, Jon. I just ordered the CC flywheel and I'll slap an Autozone clutch on it. I get to rebuild the trans too in the process; I ordered those parts from drivetrain.com.

Great advice too on the assessment to determine when an upgraded clutch is required. I'll keep that in mind down the road.