if I have my 510 media blasted...

[inline4]

should I have someone weld in new floors and patches in places that need replacing, or should I do it after it gets media blasted inside and out?

also, if I find a place that will spray a coat of primer, how much would I need?

[EScanlon]

If I were to do the job, I would prefer to weld onto sandblasted metal.

I'm sure if you ask whomever will be doing the welding, he / she will agree, it is a heck of a lot easier to weld onto metal that is free of rust and paint than it is to find that the metal is rusted and the weld is either burning through, or not getting a good weld.

Aalso as you sand blast it is possible that some of the rusted material will "give way", which may reveal new sections that will need additional patches / welding. But which is worse, to do the welding, THEN sandblast and discover you have MORE welding, or to do the sandblasting, and then do all the welding at one time.

You might choose to do some final sandblasting AFTER you're done welding if only to get a nice clean surface onto which to primer / body work.

As far as how much primer would be necessary to do a car, I'm not sure on the 510, but I would recommend you buy primer by the GALLON. In the long run, it's cheaper than buying it by the quart. Also, if you are going to be doing any body work on the car, you'd be surprised how quick you can go through a gallon.

2¢

[Z Kid]

The other advantage of having it blasted before welding, is it removes all the paint and crap which catches fire (invisible throught the welding mask) which you don't notice till you start to burn, or the smell gets you

[Gav240z]

Sorry if this was mentioned above but didn' not read as was in hurry.

I've done an introductory welding course and was told to get a good weld you need an uncontaminated base to work with otherwise welds will be messy etc.... and may not even stick.

[Victor Laury]

If you plastic media blast the car, you'll be ahead of the game and it's well worth the money (i'll guess about $600). The plastic media will not distort the 510 body panels the way sand blasting will. It will not blast out the rust but you'll be in the best posisstion to sspot blast those areas.

My media blaster can spray primer (Thanks a lot AQMD ). So I had to find a body shop nearby to haul the work to after blasting

[inline4]

Originally posted by Victor Laury

My media blaster can spray primer (Thanks a lot AQMD ). So I had to find a body shop nearby to haul the work to after blasting

so whoever I have blast the car, I should ask them to sandblast the rusty parts afterwards before priming? I dont want to leave the steel exposed to air for long... as far as the body work, this would be my first time, I figure if I mess up, I could sand, add more and resand.

I wont be doing the welding, as the floors need replacing and I dont want to mess with that (I'm going to take welding classes later)

the plan is to blast it, replace the floors and rust spots, leave it sitting in the garage until I have more money and or friends show me how to do some other work. I'm going to be buying pre fab'd stuff like the rear crossmember, so I dont have to mess with learning how to do all of that.

end result, sr20det powered 510

[EScanlon]

If it's going to be INSIDE a garage, and you're not talking the humidity you find in the Pacific Northwest or London, you shouldn't be talking rust to the extent where more damage would occur.

The addex expense of shooting some primer over ALL the metal to protect it would be doubled when you get into the bodywork and have to remove it.

Besides, if you're trying to do the job cheaply, WHY blast the whole body? Just blast those areas that are rusty and you'll be doing a metal replacement on. Leave the paint that is still in good condition alone, then when you're ready to go to paint, either Wet Sand it smooth, OR use a D/A sander.

But now you're talking a DIFFERENT project. That of painting.

Do yourself a favor and not only read the posts here, but go to the library and find a book on basic car painting. Trust me on this, unless the paint / primer you have on the car now is absolutely needing removing due to a serious incompatibility over a prior coat of paint, DON'T remove or strip it with chemicals. ESPECIALLY if you are not the person who will be doing the paint job.

Now if you INSIST on doing that, then don't screw around with sandblasting, go get the car acid dipped; which brings on a whole other slew of problems.

There's more to this than this post will handle. But I'll let others chime in.

[inline4]

keep talking me out of it guys

I cant afford it at the moment anyhow.

I was thinking of just stripping the car and then priming it because Its going to be in the garage for a long long time as I come up with other funds.

[MicksZ]

I must agree with EScanlon in the you should just do the effected area's - costs less and the before mentioned time wasting of having to reclean undercoat off etc will be diminished.

:classic:

[inline4]

I wanted the undercoat gone, so patch panels could be welded in then por15 and re undercoated.

[inline4]

also my floor pans need replacing driver and passenger side.

why would it be a pain to sandblast and primer if I was going to keep the car away from the elements?