Suspension not so stiff when changing gears, could use recommendation

[Wade]

Looking for ideas of what to check to get this figured out. The Z has been in garage for about the last 5 years, finally got it running and for the most part all is well except I dont like the way it feels when changing gears and highway driving. All the suspension is new, tokico struts/springs (although they were replaced 5 years ago), bushings, mounts, ect. Feels "squirrely" to me and I am getting some drift when changing gears, mostly above 3rd. Its on stock 14" mags with Stinger 215 60 r14's, which I have tried a few different psi's and now have them at 32.

[Jarvo2]

Any chance its a frozen caliper or the parking brake isn't disengaging? Sounds like its fine under power. Does this happen when you're driving in lets say 3rd gear & then just push the clutch in without moving the shifter? Or it might be the differential is all gummed up.

[Wade]

Brakes feel good, Ill go thru and double check them tho. I dont really notice it greatly when just pushing in the clutch, its mostly at highway speeds and tends to happen more when changing gears at higher speeds, as in once I hit the next gear. Literally feels like loosing control, I let off the pedal and regain my line .

[rcb280z]

Double check all mounts. Sounds to me like the driveline is flexing so to speak. If Im understanding you.

[EuroDat]

I would go with rcb280z advice. It really sounds like the geometry in the suspension is changing when its under power and coasting. There must be something loose or flexing a lot to cause it. Start with the basics, jack the wheels and give them a shake and go from there.

[Wade]

Went thru it all today, couldnt find anything out of the ordinary, back end feels solid to me, wheels rotating fine and brakes all check out fine. I took it for some drives down some open roads and its constant. 1st thru 3rd feels fine, I maintain a straight line even when not holding the wheel, but anything over say 45 I can feel it pulling to the side whenever I shift or hit the throttle. It doesnt exactly feel as if it is pulling to any one side in particular, it just gets real sloppy like I am hitting a wake in a boat. If I am say at 55 mph and Im just coasting and press the clutch no change, soon as hit throttle it happens. The driveline flex, maybe thats what I need to focus on as mentioned, just cant see any issues with mounts or mechanics under the back end. Could wheels not balanced correctly be causing this, cause I did notice when had the tired mounted they used what appeared to be an awful lot of weights.

[rcb280z]

Maybe take it to a different shop for balancing. I always recommend "road forcing" them. It costs a little more but well worth it. But, I'm not convinced this is an issue for you. I would suggest getting to a well known drive line shop in your area and let them drive it. Out of balance tires will give you a vibration if it's coming from the rear and front end shimmy if in the front. Did you do the suspension work yourself? A "pulling" from side to side is a drive line problem, period. If it was one direction ONLY then I would say alignment. But that is not the case. Take it to a good drive line shop and post what they find. They will find it. There is something that you are overlooking. Good luck.

[EuroDat]

I have to agree with rcb280z. I dont want to repaet it all, but it has to be in the drive line geomentry. Something is effecting all the alignment under throttle. Take it to a drive line shop and let them look at it.

Good luck

[Wade]

Ok, right on, Ill look around for a shop here in Denver to take it too.

[30 Ounce]

Did you get it aligned after the suspension work? I would lift the motor and check the mounts. Also the trans mounts and diff mounts. Could be just cheap tires...I've never heard of stinger.

[Wade]

I have not taken it to get aligned. Was under impression that the rear end was not adjustable and it pulls a straight line, steering is not an issue. Still looking around for a shop, kind of worried to just take it down to any old shop that will give me bogus "tales" of what needs to be done. Or dropping $80 on a alignment that is going to do nothing. The tires are these, Dean Stinger GTS 215/60R14 Tires for Sale Online - Vulcan Tire Sales. Cant even find them anymore, if remember correctly due to availability of profiles for the 14 inch tires it was either these or BFG's that were something like $180 a tire at the time so I went with these, as mentioned the car has been sitting for a few years but the tires are new, actually just had them mounted less then a year ago. So the tires are a cheaper brand, not sure if that could be causing my issues. One thing to add, I did set the rear end down off the jack a while back and didnt get the rear right spring into the perch snugly and was getting a horrendous knocking sound until I jacked it back up and got the spring in the perch correctly, but I didnt see any damage back there or anything, it was just shifting around I guess.

[John Coffey]

You're probably seeing a small toe change under load that is exacerbated by speed. Most likely in the rear suspension. Either the inner or outer rear LCA bushings are worn or installed incorrectly, your lower control arm(s) are bent, the rear transverse link is bent, the front diff cross member is loose or cracked, or something's not tight.

Also, crap tires can do this. Try swapping tires front to back and see if the problem goes away.