240260280z Posted December 18, 2013 Share #13 Posted December 18, 2013 Buy two wide band sensors, one meter and one switch (sensor a/sensor .... you may have to power both heaters all the time. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/45940-heres-a-cool-mod/?page=2#findComment-438117 Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted December 18, 2013 Share #14 Posted December 18, 2013 Little better on price,Aem Uego Wideband O2 Air Fuel Ratio Gauge Controller Kit w Digital LED 30 4100 | eBay Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/45940-heres-a-cool-mod/?page=2#findComment-438125 Share on other sites More sharing options...
240260280z Posted December 18, 2013 Share #15 Posted December 18, 2013 Or do it the good old fashioned way with an EGT.... but monitor all 6 cylinders:Alcor Analyzer 6 Channel EGT with McCa L R Switch Assembly P N 46353 P N 80831 | eBaybtw I always thought the best would be ECU, O2, EGT, injector and timing separated for for each individual cylinder...some day. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/45940-heres-a-cool-mod/?page=2#findComment-438126 Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjazombiemaster Posted December 18, 2013 Author Share #16 Posted December 18, 2013 Buy two wide band sensors, one meter and one switch (sensor a/sensor .... you may have to power both heaters all the time. I like the way you think, Blue Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/45940-heres-a-cool-mod/?page=2#findComment-438129 Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted December 18, 2013 Share #17 Posted December 18, 2013 For tuning - there's no contest, wideband . Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/45940-heres-a-cool-mod/?page=2#findComment-438130 Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjazombiemaster Posted December 19, 2013 Author Share #18 Posted December 19, 2013 Two O2 sensors on a switch to a single wideband display it is, then. I think I'm going to hide the display under that Z emblem plate behind the shifter. Thanks for the input guys. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/45940-heres-a-cool-mod/?page=2#findComment-438167 Share on other sites More sharing options...
240260280z Posted December 19, 2013 Share #19 Posted December 19, 2013 Keep the thread updated with pics! Goodluck. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/45940-heres-a-cool-mod/?page=2#findComment-438183 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stanley Posted December 19, 2013 Share #20 Posted December 19, 2013 Where are you installing the sensors? Are you running 6 into 2 headers? A very experienced race mechanic told me the usual place for two sensors is on the secondary's just before the Y-pipe. Downloaded instructions (don't remember which make) that recommended they be about 2 to 3 feet from the head IIRC. I've seen some Z race cars with the EGT's. Don't know how the drivers/mechanics use them while racing and testing, maybe there's a good link somewhere. In the game, FSX, they say to adjust the mix for maximum temp and then lean it a little. I've been doing that but don't really know what I'm doing. Usually fly low in twisty canyons for fast action so no time for messing with mix. I use an IR to check the relative mix on the Z (take lots of readings and average them) but have no idea how to use it to check absolute mix - doesn't seem possible unless you have a table of data for comparison, guess pro racers might have that.$25 to $50 for the IR thermometer, fun to see the temps change when you adjust the mix.Don't have headers so I take reading on the exhaust manifold about 2 inches from the head and average those, also readings near the plugs. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/45940-heres-a-cool-mod/?page=2#findComment-438193 Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjazombiemaster Posted December 20, 2013 Author Share #21 Posted December 20, 2013 Where are you installing the sensors? Are you running 6 into 2 headers? A very experienced race mechanic told me the usual place for two sensors is on the secondary's just before the Y-pipe. Downloaded instructions (don't remember which make) that recommended they be about 2 to 3 feet from the head IIRC. I'd be installing them in the exhaust manifold right before the two pipes merge. I may wait until I get some headers, however. There is a crack in my manifold, so it'd be killing a few birds with one stone. I've changed the kit I'll be using from the one I posted way back. There's one with no gauge, just penny sized LED display to keep a stock appearance. It is also much cheaper than the other wide-band kits I've seen so far. Even still, total cost will be around 150 if I use my current manifold, or much higher if I get a new header. Anyone have a header they want to sell? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/45940-heres-a-cool-mod/?page=2#findComment-438221 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stanley Posted December 20, 2013 Share #22 Posted December 20, 2013 In the game, FSX, they say to adjust the mix for maximum temp and then lean it a little. No, no, no! lean it until Max EGT and richen it a little.Also, the exhaust manifold is open in there so it might not help much to have two sensors.I'd rather have the analog (or analog looking) gauges. Saw an LED one on youtube, kind of distracting. Don't get stuck with a crummy one because it's $50 cheaper. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/45940-heres-a-cool-mod/?page=2#findComment-438226 Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjazombiemaster Posted December 20, 2013 Author Share #23 Posted December 20, 2013 No, no, no! lean it until Max EGT and richen it a little.Also, the exhaust manifold is open in there so it might not help much to have two sensors.I'd rather have the analog (or analog looking) gauges. Saw an LED one on youtube, kind of distracting. Don't get stuck with a crummy one because it's $50 cheaper.Yeah - thats why I want a new header... and the leak. The ideal thing would be to order a new header, pre-install the bungs and get the wiring ready, then swap the headers ready to go. I like the analog gauges better also, since it looks period, however, I don't want to add any extra gauge pods. This one is going to be completely hidden, unless I want to see it. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/45940-heres-a-cool-mod/?page=2#findComment-438231 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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