83 280ZX won't start, won't fire. Just turns over.

[jmw_man]

Looks like Rockauto has one for ~$85. But with the ZX distributors there are other things that tend to break, like the stator magnet, or the pickup coil, or the bushings in the distributor (which can break the magnet). You might be wasting your money assuming it's the module. Have you checked the distributor for damage? Might be better off to just get a complete distributor. Also on Rockauto for not much more.

In Post 30 you didn't mention if the key was on. With the remote starter you can turn the motor but not get spark if the key isn't on.

Do the test with the wire first, that will tell you if the the parts after the module are working. Tapping the wire, you will be doing essentially what the module does.

Good point about the distributor. RockAuto shows the Cardone at $141.79. The same exact part at O'Reilly Auto is $201.99. Definitely not a bad option since the module is the same price as the dizzy from RockAuto.

As for testing the spark plug for spark, no, I didn't have the key on. I'll have to retest. I tried to retest about an hour ago, but the engine started...... go figure. So I setup the timing light and the remote start and closed the hood. I'll just wait till later when it won't start and I'll already be setup. By the way, when it started, I turned it up, hooked up the timing light and the remote starter and did a test run with the remote starter and it started up the second time as well but it seemed like it hesitated, very slow startup like it barely caught. Anyhow, I'll just test for spark later when it won't start.

Step 2, I'll do the wire test on the coil as you described.

Step 3, I'll look into the GM HEI module option.

[rcb280z]

I would make sure the one from rockauto is complete, with module. Not saying it isn't but I would double check. Rockauto has been good to me.

[jmw_man]

OKAY,

I retested for spark in number one with timing light while the key was in the on position. Result: no spark.

I did the wire test on the coil as you described. Result: no spark at end of high tension coil wire, but there was a spark at end of the jumper wire. Also, you said that every third spark I should hear the injectors clicking. Well, the injectors made a "flowing" sound at "every" spark between the manifold and the jumper wire. It didn't matter what I did with the high tension coil wire I disconnected from the dizzy, it just wouldn't ever spark. Now, one observation I did make is that the coil got hot.

Here's the thing, a month and a half or so ago I bought a brand new coil and put it in. I still had the same intermittent starting problem I'm having today, so i feel like my problem must be "before" the coil. What do yall think?

[jmw_man]

OKAY,

I retested for spark in number one with timing light while the key was in the on position. Result: no spark.

I did the wire test on the coil as you described. Result: no spark at end of high tension coil wire, but there was a spark at end of the jumper wire. Also, you said that every third spark I should hear the injectors clicking. Well, the injectors made a "flowing" sound at "every" spark between the manifold and the jumper wire. It didn't matter what I did with the high tension coil wire I disconnected from the dizzy, it just wouldn't ever spark. Now, one observation I did make is that the coil got hot.

Here's the thing, a month and a half or so ago I bought a brand new coil and put it in. I still had the same intermittent starting problem I'm having today, so i feel like my problem must be "before" the coil. What do yall think?

[Zed Head]

The coil got hot just because the key was On? That would be short circuit somewhere after the negative post of the coil. The module could very well be shorted internally. That would heat up the coil and kill the spark, with the key On.

Try disconnecting the blue and brown wire from the module and see if the coil still gets hot. If the coil only gets hot when the key is on and the module is connected but not when the module is disconnected that's a sign the the module is shorted/bad. Make sure though, that the blue wire is not shorted to ground anywhere on the way between the module and coil. That would cause the same symptoms.

[Zed Head]

The site's acting weird and won't let me add to my last post so...I was going to add that the reason you don't get a spark is because the current through the coil is never shut off. That's also why the coil gets hot. Current flow is stuck on for some reason. Disconnecting the module will be informative. It does look a lot like a bad module.

[EuroDat]

I agree with zed head. Sounds a lot like bad module or a short to ground in the negative (blue) going to the coil. It looks like you are narrowing the problem down.

Good luck with it.

Chas

[EuroDat]

I agree with zed head. Sounds a lot like bad module or a short to ground in the negative (blue) going to the coil. It looks like you are narrowing the problem down.

Good luck with it.

Chas

[EuroDat]

Something freaky about the forum. Double post and can't edit the second one

[jmw_man]

Well, when I said the coil got hot, it got hot with key on AND I was sparking with the jumper wire from the negative on coil to the manifold. I don't know if it would get hot with "just the key on" and without me grounding the coil's negative post. I'll see what the coil feels like with just the key in on position tomorrow. I'll also disconnect the blue and brown wire from the module and check the temp tomorrow. By the way, is that the upper connector on module or the lower connector?

[jmw_man]

Chilly morning here in Dallas. I can't do any of my tests because the car keeps starting, . I tried starting it about 3 hours ago and it started, then I just went back out a couple minutes ago and it started again. The coil seems to remain cold while the key is on but I'm guessing this is normal if my car is starting normally right now. I'll update later if the car ever fails to start.

[EuroDat]

A failing TIU can often be temperature related. Mine would work great when cold and started failing after driving for a while. It did start doing it once in the garage before I wanted to leave. That was in the middle of summer.

I made a tester by using a hose clamp to fix a spark plug to a bracket and bolted it to the strut tower. That way I could use a hi tension lead to the spark plug and crank the engine from the drivers seat while checking for spark with out anyone helping. Yer it always seemed to play up when I was alone. You just need to be creative.

If you do make something like that, test it while its working fine. Thaf way yoh will know what it should look like.

Chas