huskervol Posted December 6, 2014 Share #1 Posted December 6, 2014 Hello Hope I am not missing something obvious here. I have a 71 240z (HLS3016707) that i am trying to remove the fuel pump and not sure what i am missing in trying to remove it. I have removed the main bolt on the bottom and the nuts from the two bolts coming out of the block. It is not moving at all. See attached photos. Have seen some other posts about having to remove some other adjacent items but i cannot see how anything else is holding it. Anyone have full removal instructions or pictures of what i need to do. Thanks for any help. Replacing it since I have oil running out of the side of the pump from the weep hole. Keith Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50561-mechanical-fuel-pump-removal-problems/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted December 6, 2014 Share #2 Posted December 6, 2014 Seems like I had to get a putty knife and tap around the spacer to break mine loose. You could pull the valve cover off and wiggle the actuator arm from the inside to loosen it up. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50561-mechanical-fuel-pump-removal-problems/#findComment-459954 Share on other sites More sharing options...
pjoe Posted December 6, 2014 Share #3 Posted December 6, 2014 I just removed mine last weekend. 1 bolt and 2 studs with nuts on them. Came off no problem. Must just be stuck on there. You could try tapping it with a rubber mallet Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50561-mechanical-fuel-pump-removal-problems/#findComment-459966 Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZ-240z Posted December 6, 2014 Share #4 Posted December 6, 2014 20141205_221922_LLS.jpg20141205_222018_LLS.jpg Hello Hope I am not missing something obvious here. Thanks for any help. Replacing it since I have oil running out of the side of the pump from the weep hole. Keith The only other obvious item would be, have you taken the hoses off? There could also be tension on the actuator arm riding against the engine lobe. This tension would transfer to binding on the mounting studs. Dan Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50561-mechanical-fuel-pump-removal-problems/#findComment-459971 Share on other sites More sharing options...
huskervol Posted December 6, 2014 Author Share #5 Posted December 6, 2014 Thanks guys. Just wanted to make sure I didn't break the two fixed bolts off, I'll take the cover off and tap around with a putty knife and see what happens. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50561-mechanical-fuel-pump-removal-problems/#findComment-459977 Share on other sites More sharing options...
zKars Posted December 7, 2014 Share #6 Posted December 7, 2014 Don't have to be too gentle. Couple of persuasive "taps" sideways with rubber hammer should break it free. You just have old sticky gasket syndrome. 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50561-mechanical-fuel-pump-removal-problems/#findComment-459985 Share on other sites More sharing options...
huskervol Posted December 7, 2014 Author Share #7 Posted December 7, 2014 Thanks everyone. Got it off this morning. Now the spacer is stuck good to the old pump and working to get it off without damaging it, very difficult so far. Questions 1. there was no gasket between the block and the spacer, but the new kit came with one, should i put one between the block and spacer on the reinstall?2. Should i use some type of gasket compund spread thinly on the gaskets? If yes, any recommendations in case brand matters?3. If my existing spacer cannot be reused, does any one know where to get one the best replacement? several sites say it it no longer available but will have to wait till tomorrow to call any of the nissan sites they appear to have it but you never know if there websites are just not updated with correct inventory. Thanks Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50561-mechanical-fuel-pump-removal-problems/#findComment-460012 Share on other sites More sharing options...
240260280z Posted December 7, 2014 Share #8 Posted December 7, 2014 Use a gasket against the block and one against the pump. The spacer/insulator fits between these two gaskets. Spread the stuff below on all 8 surfaces, let it get tacky then fasten bolts Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50561-mechanical-fuel-pump-removal-problems/#findComment-460013 Share on other sites More sharing options...
huskervol Posted December 7, 2014 Author Share #9 Posted December 7, 2014 Thanks, cleaned up spacer and now noticed the new airtex pump has a slightly different mold. Has a larger outer perimeter. Still seems to fit up against the block fine just that it extends beyond the spacer in certain areas. The pump is the airtex 1080 from motorsport auto. Will this matter or am I okay to use it? Thanks Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50561-mechanical-fuel-pump-removal-problems/#findComment-460016 Share on other sites More sharing options...
240260280z Posted December 7, 2014 Share #10 Posted December 7, 2014 It should be fine. The spring in the new pump is now over extending since it is removed. When you insert the new pump's arm into the head you may find that you have to firmly press the pump body upward to get a bolt in the head... don't worry about the lock washes to get the first bolt in. You will probably hear the pump sound as you press it up. 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50561-mechanical-fuel-pump-removal-problems/#findComment-460018 Share on other sites More sharing options...
oranngetang Posted December 7, 2014 Share #11 Posted December 7, 2014 I recently removed a pump from my L24 and it had the spacer, which was also stuck to the pump. The spacer ended up splitting in two when the pump finally came off (one half still stuck to the block. I installed a new pump on a new engine without a spacer, I've started it and run it like this for a little bit. With the pump lobe depressing the pump arm, I can still push firther, so there appears to be no risk of it binding up. Is the spacer required? What is it for? It seems the new 3rd party brands have a thicker mounting base to negate the spacer, as if the spacer was just a range limiting shim for the pump to regulate pressure or something?! I'm quite curious. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50561-mechanical-fuel-pump-removal-problems/#findComment-460019 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted December 7, 2014 Share #12 Posted December 7, 2014 For starters I would think the spacer limits heat transfer to the fuel pump ie. the fuel. Also the further down the pump arm the eccentric runs the more leverage it has so the greater volume it should pump...Charles Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50561-mechanical-fuel-pump-removal-problems/#findComment-460021 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now