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  • 1 month later...

Darn.  Rebuilt mine and I see now from this I made an error and put the new oil seal in upside down without doing the retainer ring because my fuel pump didn't have the seal in it when I took it apart and it was the original one on the car.  Made in May 1971.  Wonder how it got left off?  Maybe rebuilt before and it was left out?  Had 76,000 miles on it when it failed.

  • 5 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Excellent write up, also wondering if you could use the rocker arm pin from an F10 pump to replace a worn pin on a 240Z pump? Mine has started to leak oil in that area.

attachicon.gifNikki Fuel Pump.JPG

 

Did you find out any information on this? Can the pin be pressed out?

Here's a reman from O'Reillys.  It's upside down so I can't see Nikki written on the dome top but I bet it is.  If not you could swap the tops.  :D

 

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/IDF0/M23049.oap?ck=Search_E-1080_-1_-1&keyword=E-1080&doInterchangeSearch=true

 

EDIT: I just ordered one and should have it Wednesday before lunch, I'll put up some pictures.

Edited by siteunseen

The pin cannot be pressed out.

 

It has two ball bearings swaged into either side. If you press one in on one side, it eventually breaks the housing by cracking it where the pin goes through, because there is a small step in the bore that the ball does not easily slide through to the other side.

 

So yes, you can press the pin out. But the pump won't be useable. Found this out today. Wasn't fun.

Bummer. If the Nikki pumps used balls pressed into counterbored holes on both sides, that's a tough one...

 

Are the balls hardened? If not, one could drill (and maybe tap) them to extract them. I give it pretty good odds that they ARE hardened, but you never know.

 

Some heat might also help with the removal as the aluminum case would expand more than the steel ball.  Basically it's clear that they never intended those sealing balls to come out.

I really don't think there's any way of removing them without making some serious dents and marks on the housing. heating is of no help either, because there is a step just beneath each ball. the step is the ID of the pin for a press fit, and the ball is larger than the step. so once it gets to the step, the area on the inside and around the pin just pops/cracks open.

 

 

they are hardened ball bearings, they did not deform whatsoever.

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