Captain Obvious Posted February 23, 2018 Share #1897 Posted February 23, 2018 On 2/20/2018 at 10:11 PM, wheee! said: That's what I meant about only the tips of C-clip legs making contact with the yoke and the center portion floating out in air. Because of the beveled edges of the yoke, you've only got contact on maybe 25% of the entire circumference. Here's to hoping that's enough! Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?page=159#findComment-543098 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Obvious Posted February 23, 2018 Share #1898 Posted February 23, 2018 Oh, and hoping I don't sound pessimistic. I forgot to mention... Hoping it works great, and thanks for digging up the alternative! Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?page=159#findComment-543099 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted February 23, 2018 Share #1899 Posted February 23, 2018 If the clip is pushed around the slot, like it typically does over and over again when you're trying to remove one, does it hang anywhere? Doesn't seem like there's much driving force to pry it off otherwise. If you mentally/calculate the loads on the caps, they are in to the parts of the yoke that aren't cut away, rotational loads under acceleration. The clips just need to be as strong as the six weak stakes, to keep the caps from pushing out under centrifugal force. Looks sketchy at first glance but big-picture seems okay. A good thought experiment. I mentioned my early experiences with u-joints. They use a strap with a small nut and washer on the ends. All it does is pull the caps in to the seat on the flange. When you look at it it looks very weak. But somehow it holds up. Found a couple of examples. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?page=159#findComment-543108 Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheee! Posted February 23, 2018 Author Share #1900 Posted February 23, 2018 I think it will be fine in the end. The new caps seat further into the U Joint flange than the old staked bearing cap and the fit is extremely tight. I couldn't press the caps in on the bench vise without a snipe on the handle so I had to use the hydraulic press. In the end, I snapped a bearing cap on the second joint while I was pressing it in. I will need a new joint... Once the caps are in tight, the clips are a secondary safety to the already super tight bearing caps. I doubt that there would ever be enough rotational force to dislodge them from the flange. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?page=159#findComment-543111 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted February 23, 2018 Share #1901 Posted February 23, 2018 If you cruise across the Nevada desert at 100 mph in summer heat could cause expansion. The clips are a good backup. You must have jinxed yourself when you posted about how "smooth" things went on the first one. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?page=159#findComment-543115 Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheee! Posted February 23, 2018 Author Share #1902 Posted February 23, 2018 13 minutes ago, Zed Head said: If you cruise across the Nevada desert at 100 mph in summer heat could cause expansion. The clips are a good backup. You must have jinxed yourself when you posted about how "smooth" things went on the first one. I was cruising through the second joint, no issues, when "SNAP".... sad face No big deal in the long run. I'll git'er done! Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?page=159#findComment-543116 Share on other sites More sharing options...
EuroDat Posted February 24, 2018 Share #1903 Posted February 24, 2018 12 hours ago, Zed Head said: If the clip is pushed around the slot, like it typically does over and over again when you're trying to remove one, does it hang anywhere? Doesn't seem like there's much driving force to pry it off otherwise. If you mentally/calculate the loads on the caps, they are in to the parts of the yoke that aren't cut away, rotational loads under acceleration. The clips just need to be as strong as the six weak stakes, to keep the caps from pushing out under centrifugal force. Looks sketchy at first glance but big-picture seems okay. A good thought experiment. I was thinking that too. You could spin the circlip around to the back of the cup to get more contact. Captain Obvious and I mentioned doing that around post 1870, but if you look at the photo's in post 1860, theee is not enough clerance. The circlips would bind on the back section. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?page=159#findComment-543169 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Obvious Posted February 24, 2018 Share #1904 Posted February 24, 2018 Yeah, you can't spin the clip around the back because of the shape of the yoke. The way it's on is the only way it will fit. If Wheeeeeeeee!! had to use the hydraulic press to get those caps in, I suspect the clips are like belt and suspenders. 19 hours ago, wheee! said: I was cruising through the second joint, no issues, when "SNAP".... sad face Haha!! Sounds like something I would do. That unmistakable sound of something going awry under much pressure. Might not have needed them then, but I hope you were wearing safety glasses!! Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?page=159#findComment-543181 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted February 24, 2018 Share #1905 Posted February 24, 2018 (edited) 3 hours ago, Captain Obvious said: Yeah, you can't spin the clip around the back because of the shape of the yoke. The way it's on is the only way it will fit. I'm not 100% on that. The clip sits in the cap groove and I can't tell how much sticks out. The picture I looked at seemed to have a small edge available. My point was that if there was a force causing the clip to rotate in the groove that the tips might get levered out as it rotated. Like you do when you're removing them. Took a second browse and found another picture that doesn't look 100% either. Maybe a powder coat buildup? I don't know. The clips don't seem to fit the groove super-tightly. Probably not a problem. Makes me feel funny but I'd still run them. Edit - the Nissan parts are just so precisely done that they make everything else look "bad". Color-coded super-precise u-joint clip fitting procedures and all that. Probably why last 200,000 miles. Edited February 24, 2018 by Zed Head Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?page=159#findComment-543186 Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheee! Posted March 6, 2018 Author Share #1906 Posted March 6, 2018 Finished the prop shaft with a new u joint and some loctite for good measure. 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?page=159#findComment-543887 Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheee! Posted March 7, 2018 Author Share #1907 Posted March 7, 2018 More small progress. Sand blasted the rusty gas pedal assembly and gave it a shiny new powder coat and cleaned up pedal skin. Looks good!The devil is in the details. Small stuff like this takes time... Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?page=159#findComment-543957 Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheee! Posted March 7, 2018 Author Share #1908 Posted March 7, 2018 Next up, this rusty mess... Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?page=159#findComment-543960 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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