Matthew Abate Posted September 6, 2015 Author Share #49 Posted September 6, 2015 (edited) Nothing to report other that I finished pulling the rivets out of the floor and the floors are in pretty much the same condition on both sides.I was thinking about where I want to go with the car and have figured out what my baseline goal is to try to beat the specs on a factory 1973 Porsche 911RS.A stock 1973 240Z supposedly makes 171 hp and its curb weight is 2301.6 lbs. A 1973 Porsche 911 RS weighs 2150 and makes 210 hp from a 2687 cc engine.So I need to find 150 lbs to lose and 39 HP to gain. And I need to think about torque and gear ratios.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited September 7, 2015 by Matthew Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51541-1973-rebuild/?page=5#findComment-477106 Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted September 6, 2015 Share #50 Posted September 6, 2015 You are going to be hard pressed to lose that kind of weight from a 73 unless you strip out the interior, the bumpers and become a vegan.The power is doable as long as you don't mind pulling the L24 or throwing all kinds of money at it. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51541-1973-rebuild/?page=5#findComment-477111 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Abate Posted September 6, 2015 Author Share #51 Posted September 6, 2015 (edited) Well, I weigh 172 pounds and started hitting the gym pretty hard recently. Also, the car can lose more than 30 lbs just by switching to a lithium battery, plus I'll get whatever the difference between a stock radiator and an aluminum one saves me. The one I have is leaking so I'm going high performance on that front. However, I'm sure the sound deadener I intend to instal will suck up some of that. Any other quick and easy weight savers out there? CF hood? Plastic gas tank? Nitrogen in the tires? As far as power is concerned, I saw somewhere on this forum that triple Mikunis supposedly bring an L24 up to 190HP and an L28 up to 200HP. it looked like manufacturer's documentation, so who knows how realistic that is, but if a carb change can do that, then I'm sure the other plans I have can get me over 200 without trouble. But the above target is a P:W of ~10:1; better than a Porsche 993 or a BMW E45 M3, not that this ratio is everything, but it's fun to think about. Edited September 7, 2015 by Matthew Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51541-1973-rebuild/?page=5#findComment-477130 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Abate Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share #52 Posted October 11, 2015 (edited) Okay, I'm back. Sorry for the silence. I got laid off in the middle of August and the car had to go on the back burner for a minute while I figured out a plan for that little issue. I've done a small amount of work on it since my last post; mostly taking a wire wheel to the floor to see what the story is there, but also pulling the dash. The dash project was a piece of cake except for one thing. I got a little over zealous with the ratchet and smacked it with the handle while I was pulling the bolts under the windshield. Of course I put two little dents in the dash that are big enough to be a problem but small enough for me to not know what to do about it. I'll see what it looks like after I clean it up, but I have a feeling it's going to need repairing. Major bummer because it was perfect before that. Here's the damage: Edited October 12, 2015 by Matthew Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51541-1973-rebuild/?page=5#findComment-478875 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Obvious Posted October 12, 2015 Share #53 Posted October 12, 2015 Ignore the dents in the dash and focus on the rest of the car. Pretend the previous owner did it. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51541-1973-rebuild/?page=5#findComment-478885 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freez74 Posted October 12, 2015 Share #54 Posted October 12, 2015 I would like to take the dash out of my car, but I fear it. How long did it take you to do that? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51541-1973-rebuild/?page=5#findComment-478913 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Abate Posted October 12, 2015 Author Share #55 Posted October 12, 2015 (edited) About an hour. Here are the instructions: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/5934-removing-dash-and-interior-for-paint/The only hard part was finding where the heater controls connected on the right side near the firewall and getting a screwdriver in there.Just be careful with the dash. I didn't realize they are that fragile. ://M Edited October 12, 2015 by Matthew Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51541-1973-rebuild/?page=5#findComment-478916 Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossiz Posted October 13, 2015 Share #56 Posted October 13, 2015 Ignore the dents in the dash and focus on the rest of the car. Pretend the previous owner did it. wise words. bigger fish to fry - there's a whole car in front of you! Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51541-1973-rebuild/?page=5#findComment-479005 Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted October 13, 2015 Share #57 Posted October 13, 2015 It would've been the windshield that got hit if it were mine. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51541-1973-rebuild/?page=5#findComment-479022 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freez74 Posted October 13, 2015 Share #58 Posted October 13, 2015 About an hour. Here are the instructions: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/5934-removing-dash-and-interior-for-paint/The only hard part was finding where the heater controls connected on the right side near the firewall and getting a screwdriver in there.Just be careful with the dash. I didn't realize they are that fragile. ://MThanks, I read throught those and they sound pretty complete. I really thought it would take more than an hour! Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51541-1973-rebuild/?page=5#findComment-479043 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Abate Posted October 13, 2015 Author Share #59 Posted October 13, 2015 (edited) Me too. Most of of the delay for me was going back and rereading the instructions to make sure I wasn't skipping a step.FYI, you'll need some long socket extensions for the heater and some very short or 90 degree screw drivers to get the heater control wires separated to get the center plastic piece out.The hardest part is separating the damned plugs on the wiring harnesses./M Edited October 13, 2015 by Matthew Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51541-1973-rebuild/?page=5#findComment-479046 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Abate Posted October 23, 2015 Author Share #60 Posted October 23, 2015 (edited) Not much to report as I've been spending the week trying to lock down a new job. Here's where I am as of tonight: Took the remaining dash components out, along with the heater and paper trim pieces. I think all that's left is the steering column, paper firewall insulation, pedals, and wiring. That stuff needs to stay in until I pull the suspension and engine, so I'm moving to the back half of the interior after I box all of these parts up. Also, what's this called? : ... In other news, I'm starting to talk to places about the welding and paint. I have a guy coming in two weeks who is in Boonton, NJ and will give me a quote on fixing the wholes, stripping, epoxy coating, and painting everything. That will dictate a lot of how I move forward (what I do myself and what I farm out). By the way, he told me definitely not to media blast the car and use aircraft stripper instead. Anyone have experience with this? /M Edited October 23, 2015 by Matthew Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51541-1973-rebuild/?page=5#findComment-479609 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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