Matthew Abate Posted September 24, 2020 Author Share #889 Posted September 24, 2020 (edited) Okay, so even though I greatly prefer the look of that little brass one, I’ve decided to go with the Willwood valve I have for two reasons: 1) I have it on hand, and 2) I suck at fabricating brackets and the Willwood looks like I can use the factory mounting hardware after some persuading. I also would rather not have to use the adapters. If it came in m10 I might have changed my mind. Plus, the Willwood won’t ever go to complete shut off, so I can’t accidentally turn off my rear brakes under any circumstance, as you could theoretically with the brass one. Edited September 24, 2020 by Matthew Abate Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51541-1973-rebuild/?page=75#findComment-606531 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Abate Posted September 28, 2020 Author Share #890 Posted September 28, 2020 Anyone have any idea what the torque for the two m21 plugs on the sides of the distribution block might be? I want to make sure those new copper washers seal completely, but not ruin them. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51541-1973-rebuild/?page=75#findComment-606768 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted September 28, 2020 Share #891 Posted September 28, 2020 No idea. Would be surprised if its published anywhere. I dont think they really expected the part to be serviced. Maybe you could interpolate a value based on the bolt size and threads Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51541-1973-rebuild/?page=75#findComment-606777 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Abate Posted October 16, 2020 Author Share #892 Posted October 16, 2020 (edited) Okay, it’s been a while because I was stuck on how to mount the proportioning valve, but I think I have figured it out. Home Depot has chrome spacers that are close to the same outside diameter as the Nissan spacers, but in a variety of lengths from 1/4” to 1”. The problem is the inside diameter is 3/8ths and the bolt that needs to go through them is m6. To solve that problem I found some nylon tubing in the plumbing section that is just over 6mm ID and 3/8ths OD that I cut to the length of the spacers to act as a bushing. Sorry that some of those are blurry, but I think you get the idea. That last one shows the m6 stainless bolts I bought to replace the original 50mm hex bolts. Unfortunately, they are threaded the entire length and don’t have a grip, but they match what I am using on the engine and I think the nylon mitigates the need for the grip enough to use them. It’s not like they are holding the engine together. I selected lengths that give me as close to the same number of threads to the original configuration as possible. Trial fitting happens this weekend. Edited October 16, 2020 by Matthew Abate 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51541-1973-rebuild/?page=75#findComment-608096 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Obvious Posted October 16, 2020 Share #893 Posted October 16, 2020 Nice adaptation! I would probably have spent hours turning a spacer out of titanium or something. And then slapped myself in the forehead when I saw what you did. 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51541-1973-rebuild/?page=75#findComment-608100 Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheee! Posted October 16, 2020 Share #894 Posted October 16, 2020 I just bolted mine over the stock safety valve. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51541-1973-rebuild/?page=75#findComment-608109 Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted October 16, 2020 Share #895 Posted October 16, 2020 And one more version, 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51541-1973-rebuild/?page=75#findComment-608160 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted October 17, 2020 Share #896 Posted October 17, 2020 3 hours ago, grannyknot said: And one more version, Did you fab the bracket from scratch GK? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51541-1973-rebuild/?page=75#findComment-608171 Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted October 17, 2020 Share #897 Posted October 17, 2020 Yup, it is just soft aluminum plate. 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51541-1973-rebuild/?page=75#findComment-608172 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted October 17, 2020 Share #898 Posted October 17, 2020 Very clean looking 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51541-1973-rebuild/?page=75#findComment-608173 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Abate Posted October 17, 2020 Author Share #899 Posted October 17, 2020 11 hours ago, wheee! said: I just bolted mine over the stock safety valve. Why did you keep the original valve, too? What am I missing? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51541-1973-rebuild/?page=75#findComment-608174 Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheee! Posted October 17, 2020 Share #900 Posted October 17, 2020 The original prop valve is very close to where my brakes are proportioned. I have the AZC trak pak of huge Wilwood’s front and rear. Paired with the 15/16” Master, the Wilwood prop valve is only for fine tuning. Most people have told me it isn’t necessary and I have it set wide open for the moment. I’ll adjust as needed. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51541-1973-rebuild/?page=75#findComment-608176 Share on other sites More sharing options...
dspillman
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