Stanley Posted July 30, 2015 Author Share #13 Posted July 30, 2015 Ordered a new driveshaft with oversize Spicer's. This is getting expensive, but it's probably not a bad idea to replace those old parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted July 30, 2015 Share #14 Posted July 30, 2015 I think that most of us were recommending that your drive (propeller) shaft wouldn't be the cause of the vibration. But, who knows. You're caught in the morass of many changed things, and a problem. Have you had the front end rechecked? Who turns just one rotor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stanley Posted July 30, 2015 Author Share #15 Posted July 30, 2015 The noise and the vibration sound like at least two separate problems. Maybe there's a loose bolt somewhere. I'd like to fix one thing at a time and test the car before doing anything else, but I'm not telling them to do that, it would take way longer. A lot of the work is stuff I've been planning to do anyway, like brake upgrade and heavy duty U-joints. There's still more left for someday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Palmer Posted July 30, 2015 Share #16 Posted July 30, 2015 Keeping the yoke and shaft orientation one to the other should keep vibration from returning. The shaft was balance that way so putting it back that way should be fine. I agree with the guys in thinking you have other problems here..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heyitsrama Posted July 31, 2015 Share #17 Posted July 31, 2015 0.01 bitcoin says that it was the diff mount... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted July 31, 2015 Share #18 Posted July 31, 2015 I agree with Jim, also in the future instead of buying a new driveshaft. We have a local company that rebuilds shafts and balances them. It's a pretty common thing for heavier trucks and racecars. I am sure you have a similar service in your area. Cheaper than a new driveshaft. Like $60 for 2 u joints and a balance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stanley Posted August 1, 2015 Author Share #19 Posted August 1, 2015 (edited) Got the driveshaft and diff mount installed today. Also new rear wheel bearings. Noise (the ratcheting noise that I posted about, a month or so ago; it was occasional at first and got worse and frequent) and vibration are gone. Also the car feels smoother somehow on the road. Old wheel bearing were loose, mechanic reported. He found some new grease smeared around but none in the bearings. Diff mount was worn and weakened but not totally shot, think I replaced it when I bought the car. Silky smooth now, feels faster, but probably imagining it. Brake upgrade next week. Heard the mechanic telling other mechanic cause of the noise. Forgot to ask him later but heard something about "needle bearings". I first thought the noise was coming from the left front wheel. But I duct-taped a little recorder under the fenders, one at a time, and test drove it. I wasn't coming from there, but I never could hear where it was. Thought the vibration was from right rear wheel, also wrong on that one. Edited August 1, 2015 by Stanley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EuroDat Posted August 1, 2015 Share #20 Posted August 1, 2015 Great news. Nice to hear you have an excellent result too. I might have gave you some bad advice in the second post. I misunderstood you post and thought you already replaced the U-joints and then had the vibration. Chas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stanley Posted August 2, 2015 Author Share #21 Posted August 2, 2015 So I was wrong to blame the first shop for the noise and vibration, and they mentioned bad U joints. But zKars was correct, they lied about greasing the rear wheel bearings, and took some shortcuts. If they had R&R'd them, why not put new ones? Chas, thanks for the side by side U joint photos. The boss at the new shop said to turn the new aluminum drums. "...they're probably from China...". Charles, 2nd shop sent me to a driveshaft place in Gardena. $125 to install my (incorrect) new U-joints, $275 if they had been non-replaceable type. But they don't work on cars, and 24 hours to get it done. Needed the car this weekend. I'd have had to R&R anyway, plus I'd have had to rent a car. So got this aluminum one I wanted anyway. Some bling no one can see unless they're under the car. The head suspension mechanic was pissed at MSA for the packaging. They could have stuck some wadded newspapers in there at least. Glad it only had a short ride from Orange. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted August 2, 2015 Share #22 Posted August 2, 2015 (edited) MSA is known for packaging problems, and not caring about it. Only game in town, too bad. I started a thread for MSA. Linked this thread. Hope you don't mind, let me know and I can edit it out. Edited August 2, 2015 by Zed Head Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted August 3, 2015 Share #23 Posted August 3, 2015 StanleyThat makes perfect sense and the lighter driveshaft is always good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilbur
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