siteunseen Posted September 19, 2015 Author Share #13 Posted September 19, 2015 Assemble cold lash before you start the car but the cam will be wiped hot so you should replicate it when setting lash pad height. Maybe I am wrong on this but I am assuming that reproducing the hot lash is correct and more accurate.But doesn't heat expand metals, so an exhaust valve set at .10 cold will expand to .12 when hot on it's on? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/52405-checking-cam-wipe/?page=2#findComment-477768 Share on other sites More sharing options...
240260280z Posted September 19, 2015 Share #14 Posted September 19, 2015 yes, that is why I suggest testing lash pads at the "hot lash spacing" even though the motor is cold when testing as that is the same spacing where the car will work when hot.... so you are simulating a hot gap without the heat Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/52405-checking-cam-wipe/?page=2#findComment-477770 Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted September 19, 2015 Author Share #15 Posted September 19, 2015 yes, that is why I suggest testing lash pads at the "hot lash spacing" even though the motor is cold when testing as that is the same spacing where the car will work when hot.... so you are simulating a hot gap without the heat Oh, okay you mean checking the wipe patterns with the hot specs. But I should go back to cold for the first cranking. Thank you Blue. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/52405-checking-cam-wipe/?page=2#findComment-477771 Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted September 19, 2015 Share #16 Posted September 19, 2015 Cliff,I think you are being a little paranoid, but I understand. I think cold specs will be fine for break in.After your initial set up and run check them hot . My conversations with Schneider I was told that the 20 minute break in at 2000 didn't apply to our valve train- just saying what I was told. Did I do 20 minutes, not exactly . Definetly not 20 at 2000. Didn't do it on either of my Schneider or Isky cam. The issues I experienced were with improper valve guide install, but the wear on cam lobes looked perfect. Just think about how many folks have everything dialed in so well on a total rebuild that it just fires up and runs for 20 minutes no issues to deal with. It seems to me that a lot of cam issues are from not making sure the system is primed well enough for instant oil on the cam with start up. Prime the motor with a drill and watch the oil bleed out on to your can before you ever start the motor. A slight valve clearance issue will not hurt anything. 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/52405-checking-cam-wipe/?page=2#findComment-477772 Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted September 19, 2015 Author Share #17 Posted September 19, 2015 Done!Had to use a lash pad off the p79, thinner brought it closer to the pivot end. They're not perfect by any stretch but they look good to me for a temporary e88. Learned some things too.Happy Hour has started at my local pub (my house). Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/52405-checking-cam-wipe/?page=2#findComment-477773 Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted September 20, 2015 Author Share #18 Posted September 20, 2015 Learned to put the head on a block on a cart with wheels. 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/52405-checking-cam-wipe/?page=2#findComment-477785 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarb
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