Searching around a bit, it seems others have blocked off the block breather and it's "ok" since the block breathes up to the head/valve cover and as long as you have venting there, you are ok. So I'm just gonna leave it blocked I guess and run a k&n breather on the valve cover or keep the hose to the airbox. 

 

Yeah, I think that's just some JB weld or something there. 

 

Yeah, those plugs are something that Larry developed. He told me a bit about them on the phone. He said he would run into problems with the factory plugs leaking so these bolt into place and can be resbuilt/resealed? I don't really want to remove them and create a leak to investigate them though.

Got the L24 out last night! Went super smooth. Got the new engine out of the crate and on the stand too. Going to take the trans in for rebuilt on Monday. 

 

IMG_5346 by blodi, on Flickr

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IMG_5360 by blodi, on Flickr

Edited December 5, 20159 yr by blodi

 

 

 

http://www.americancustomcam.com/index.htm

 

I spoke with Joe there and he was extremely helpful and gave me all the specs on the cam. He says its a "very popular cam" "sound awesome at idle" "makes no power below 3K, but then just pulls like crazy" and its "a very aggressive street/moderate race cam"....seems to make sense with the 300 duration and 500 lift specs he gave me on it. 

 

I talked to Jerry at Schneider about a cam such as yours that I have.

He said 10.5 to 11.0 CR required. Too high for pump gas.

He also says the 300 duration puts you outside of the street RPM driving range.

Try it out and let us know.

I have never seen freeze plugs like that before, they look like outside caps that have 2 screws going into the block. Are they temporary or permanent?

I have never seen freeze plugs like that before, they look like outside caps that have 2 screws going into the block. Are they temporary or permanent?

He touches on that in post #37. FWIW

He touches on that in post #37. FWIW

That's what I get for not reading the text.

I talked to Jerry at Schneider about a cam such as yours that I have.

He said 10.5 to 11.0 CR required. Too high for pump gas.

He also says the 300 duration puts you outside of the street RPM driving range.

Try it out and let us know.

 

The engine is high compression. The L engine calculator with F54/E31 flat pistons and 40 bore put it at 10.43. My engine has a thicker 2mm headgasket, but the head looks to have been shaved so I'm thinking it is in that 10.5-11 range. The seller told me he was told it was 11.0 compression when he bought it but he wasn't sure. He said he was told it was streetable, but, would just need the timing dialed back for pump gas. 

As I mentioned earlier, Joe at American Cam said it was a aggressive street cam and that it is basically the most aggressive cam you would want to use on the street. But he certainly said it was streetable.  He did say all the power was north of 3K rpm. 

Only a few mentions that I can find online of this 071 cam including this one...

"i have a 76 280z with a 071 cam. from american cam its a 300 duration and it runs good with the fuel on the rich side."

Made some great progress this weekend. Probably going to install the engine/trans this Friday night as long as the trans is done being rebuilt by then. Might have this thing fired up before Xmas! Still plenty to do but here it what I got done this weekend...

-Old L24 all stripped down and put in the crate

-Valves adjusted

-New engine mounts installed

-Spark plugs gapped/installed

-Alternator bracket cleaned/painted/installed

-Valve cover polished/installed

-Breather filter installed

-Old long carb studs removed from L24 intake to put on N36 intake. 

-New intake/exhaust studs installed

-Oil Filter/pressure sensor installed

-Fuse installed for fuel pump

-Steam cleaned engine bay and installed new connectors for reverse switch and temp sensor

-Painted brake booster

-Cleaned alternator

-Cleaned/painted fuel rail

-Cleaned painted heat shield

-other stuff I probably forgot...anyways...some pics....

IMG_5496 by blodi, on Flickr

IMG_5498 by blodi, on Flickr

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Edited December 14, 20159 yr by blodi

Nice job!  Love that squeaky clean engine bay.

Looking forward to the roar on fireup.

Nice job!  Love that squeaky clean engine bay.

Looking forward to the roar on fireup.

Me too!

 

That engine bay is going to ruin my Monday, I'm going to try and wax what I can to maybe get close to your's. 

 

When you replace the motor mounts you should go ahead and change out the transmission insulator, Nissan #11320-E4100.  Ordered mine Friday from my local Nissan dealership, $65.  Should be there Tuesday.

 

Do you have a plan for your fuel pump?  Here's a pretty sweet set-up, http://jarvas240z.blogspot.com/2013/01/electric-fuel-pump-installation.html

Thanks guys. The car is pretty insanely clean to begin with(body was fully restored in 2010), so not to much work needed in the engine bay to get it that clean. But,there was an exhaust manifold leak and the head gasket leaking oil, so that created a bit of grime everywhere. 

 

I actually did get a new trans insulator. I put that on the trans mount and cleaned up the whole thing this weekend too. 

 

I just bought the K&N pump from MSA. Gonna wire that in and find somewhere to mount it this weekend. 

 

Talked to the trans shop this morning. They haven't touched my trans I told them I really want it by this weekend. So, we'll see. I'd rather put the engine/trans in together, so I can align them outside the car...plus I don't know if I have enough clearance on my jack stands to put the trans in from the bottom. 

I'm thinking you put the insulator on the tranny first, get the tranny tucked up in the tunnel then the transmission crossmember mount bolts up.