Engine only runs with starter fluid

[siteunseen]

IMO It's not necessary to separate the float bowl from the body unless it's leaking fuel from the connection.

No, not at all.

 

I did it so shining them up would be easier. 

 

If they do leak there's a way to swap that rubber piece around.  I'd have to skim through the DVD to remember how.

[hatepotholez]

IMO It's not necessary to separate the float bowl from the body unless it's leaking fuel from the connection.

 

I understand, the only issue i'm having is when I try to put the float assembly back in I have a slight bit of twisting that has to happen. I am unsure if that twisting action changes the settings on the float. I would rather drop it in from the top directly. 

[Mark Maras]

 I don't remember having to do much twisting on four screw carbs. I've been told that three screw carbs require rotation to remove the tops. Unless there is considerable resistance, I doubt that the float setting will be changed. By removing the suction chamber and piston you can see the fuel level in the nozzle to double check the height. I have never used this method & I don't remember how far below the top of the nozzle the fuel is supposed to be. Anyone want to chime in and add some info?

[hatepotholez]

Ok, made some progress. The carbs didn't need rebuilding, the spark plugs were just really wet. Remarkably it ran very good but at high rpms. I still have a timing issue I have to deal with   I am guessing the oil pump is not aligned and I have to take it out and align it. Once the timing is done I will try and sync and tune the carbs.

[hatepotholez]

Quick update, I haven't solved this issue.

I wanted to know how to check for a weak fuel pump? I hand pumped the fuel pump and it squirted out fuel. I put it back in the car but nothing. I let the car sit over a month and the fuel level in the filter is near the bottom, I crank and see fluid gushing inside but it will not raise to the top to the output. I ordered a fuel pump from rockauto just to try it out.

 

 

[siteunseen]

If you have screens on the carbs banjo bolts they may be restricting the flow. Mine never completely fills my glass filter after the pump. Probably not the oe one on the passenger's fender either.

You might put a gauge on the end of the supply side coming off the pump and see what it reads? Either turning the motor with the starter or working the arm by hand. You could get a cheap gauge at Lowes in the pool filter section.

 

 

[Patcon]

There is an eccentric that runs the fuel pump. Is yours tightened and good. If you take the valve cover off you should be able to see the eccentric pump the fuel pump using a remote starter. Make sure the car won't start or it will make an oily mess. 

[siteunseen]

The eccentric is the arm that goes against the off center cup on the cam sprocket bolt, right? I've wondered if that off centered cup came unwelded from the washer would the  pump still work? It wouldn't would it? Just curious.

[Patcon]

Actually the off center cup is the eccentric that goes against the lever. If the bolt is loose or the cup were to break somehow the pump would quit working. If the pump is working, unhook all the lines from the exit port. Check for flow, add one line back at a time checking for flow. When the flow stops, find the reason, there is the problem...

[siteunseen]

Learned something new today, thanks Patcon! An off centered part called eccentric,  reminds me of myself.

[hatepotholez]

so a little update. 

Car is running on it's own but only will stay on if choke is on.

Some things I did.

-installed a new mechanical fuel pump.

-adjusted floats to be parallel to lid cover per SU DVD.

-installed new needle and seats, end of line screens, fuel pipes and hoses.

-adjusted idle nuts to 2.5 turns.

 

I am still noticing gas leaking from the rear carb vents. This does happen after 10 minutes, compared to 5 minutes before the carb work. I will check the rear float again. 

The front damper is not dropping down. I cleaned the needle but it seems the issue is not between the nozzle and needle but with the pot and damper. 

Gas is coming out of rear carb's throttle area. The damper action is perfect, it goes up and down with engine vacuum unlike the front one.

 

[Mark Maras]

 Needing the choke when the engine is warm is a sure sign of a lean mixture. Inadequate fuel supply, wrong float setting, are a couple of the more obvious reasons. They may need the mixture adjustments opened up 1/4-1/2 turn more, however, the overflowing carb and the sticking piston have to corrected first.

 Does the piston stick at the bottom of it's stroke? If so, it is likely nozzle misalignment. When aligning the nozzles, adjust them to the top. That way when you drop the nozzle screws down 2 1/2 turns later, you'll have a little extra clearance to ensure the needles don't stick in the nozzles. 

 If the piston is sticking higher up, carefully inspect the damper and chamber for scratches and or dents. Not only is the piston supposed to drop but it should drop at the same rate as the other carb.

 The overflowing float bowl is likely caused by a defective float, float pivot or too much pressure. (You already replaced the needle and seat) One way or another the needle and seat are not closing the fuel off when the float raises.