Engine turning, not starting. '73 240z

[WolfScythe]

Ok, so, I have an issue. It's been some time since I've posted here and I'm still working on a 1973 240z. Since my last post, which was in regards to replacing/repairing the fuel pump, I have replaced the pump, strainer, and the fuell line between pump and strainer. Now my issue is that, despite the new pump, the car will not start. My current assumption is either a clog in the metal fuel line from pump to carbs, a clog in the rubber fuel line that connect directly to the carbs, or an issue with the flow guide valve. These being my assumed issues I was wondering how I might go about checking these.

 

Also to state, before someone suggests it, I was able to put a vacuum pump on the fuel line, between strainer and fuel pump, and pull fuel up to the strainer with no issues so I know the line is clean from tank to strainer. So all lines leading up to the pump are clean.

How might I go about removing the metal fuel line to check for clogging or even the rubber hoses to the carburetors?

 

How would I check the flow guide valve?

 

Is there anything else that could be the issue here?

 

Would removing the rubber fuel line connector from pump to metal fuel line and redirecting to a clean container be a good way to test whether the pump is currently working?

[siteunseen]

Pull the hoses off the carbs and put them into some kind of clear bottle, water bottles work good, take the valve cover off and work the pump's arm back and forth by hand to see if you are getting fuel to them.  That's what I would do. 

[Stanley]

You could see if there's gas in the float bowls first; if so that would rule out some stuff. 

 

If the car won't start, the usual method of pulling a hose off a float bowl banjo bolt and directing it into a plastic bottle to check the flow with the engine running (procedure in the FSM) won't work, but the method suggested above should be OK.

 

If you have SU carbs, there's a vent on the float bowl lid. It's easy to see if there's gas in the float bowls: get the little plastic straw from a can of carb cleaner or WD40 and poke it through the vent so it rests lightly on top of the float. If there's gas you can push the float down about 1/2 inch, otherwise you can't since the float would be bottomed out. If you have the flattop carbs maybe they have something similar, don't know. I think they have a built-in sight glass to see fuel level.

 

I'd think cranking the engine would run the fuel pump enough to start it, but maybe not. Might need to siphon some gas into the float bowls to start if they both went dry.

[WolfScythe]

Thanks for your reply, found out that my fuel pump outlet line was not fully tightened and so air was passing through it. All is good in that area now. There still seems to be a clog in the fuel line to the rear carb, but i think i can take care of that well enough. All this because i didn't properly check a connection. Though the suggested test method is what helped me find the issue, so I'm very thankful for it.

Edited December 9, 2015 by WolfScythe

[siteunseen]

Thanks for your reply, found out that my fuel pump outlet line was not fully tightened and so air was passing through it. All is good in that area now. There still seems to be a clog in the fuel line to the rear carb, but i think i can take care of that well enough.

Good deal, you got lucky. 

 

There are filters on the banjo bolts that could get clogged?  "Internal gas filter" in this picture. 

 

[WolfScythe]

Ok so the car runs on its own fuel line...however now i'm stuck with a clutch issue. 2 steps forward, 1 step back...

[siteunseen]

There's some adjustability in the clutch on my '72, not sure on your's though. Slave cylinders adjustable. And the pedal. Mine was slipping bad thought it needed replacing but read on here how to adjust. Works fine. FWIW

[Mark Maras]

 What are the symptoms of your clutch issue?