Yarb Posted April 9, 2024 Share #937 Posted April 9, 2024 Which seal company did you go with? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/55369-1971-hls30-14938-lily-build/?page=79#findComment-663887 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted April 9, 2024 Author Share #938 Posted April 9, 2024 Those are all Precision seals. They're not perfect around the glass. Maybe they'll get better with time Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/55369-1971-hls30-14938-lily-build/?page=79#findComment-663888 Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartsscooterservice Posted April 10, 2024 Share #939 Posted April 10, 2024 7 hours ago, Patcon said: Those are all Precision seals. They're not perfect around the glass. Maybe they'll get better with time It's a problem with allmost all modern weather stripping kits. Seals used to be softer in the past to. The door slamming thing is also because to hard and thick modern seals, i found a problem for that finding my own seal at an industrial supplier. Currently not a Z but my 70 mustang was painted last year, and the rear glass was out, they put a new seal but it's leaking everywhere when I wash it and even with rain. ordered a more expensive one, going to try again. 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/55369-1971-hls30-14938-lily-build/?page=79#findComment-663902 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted April 14, 2024 Author Share #940 Posted April 14, 2024 Here are the quarter windows This one looks pretty good. This is the main flaw in the other one Hopefully this corner will settle in eventually. The good news is I can't see it from the drivers seat! I polished the other door glass yesterday. The is Cerium Oxide. You have to make a slurry. It cleans it up pretty good but donesn't really remove big flaws. You can see the line of scratching right at the belt weatherstrip. I filled the differential. The hand pump blew an end off at one point and blew that stinky stuff all over me!! I got the hatch strut on yesterday too. It looks really nice @jfa.series1! I have a problem with the hatch hinges though. When I lower the hatch the hinge hits the ruber hinge cups. I am thinking there is too much sealant under them. I can force the hatch down the last few inches but you can tell the hinges don't move nay more. Can some body vouch for the hinges being supposed to clear all the way closed. When I lower the hinges down I can't get the hatch to flush up with the roof because of this interference. 2 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/55369-1971-hls30-14938-lily-build/?page=79#findComment-664093 Share on other sites More sharing options...
emccallum Posted April 14, 2024 Share #941 Posted April 14, 2024 Is the hinge hitting the metal piece thats on top of the rubber? I think it is supposed to be offset. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/55369-1971-hls30-14938-lily-build/?page=79#findComment-664094 Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfa.series1 Posted April 14, 2024 Share #942 Posted April 14, 2024 Charles, When I tore down my car there was no sealant on or under the rubber hinge boots, just the thin metal plate holding the boot in shape under the hinge. Jim 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/55369-1971-hls30-14938-lily-build/?page=79#findComment-664096 Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfa.series1 Posted April 14, 2024 Share #943 Posted April 14, 2024 I think I spotted the problem on your last pic: the thin metal plate goes under the hinge. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/55369-1971-hls30-14938-lily-build/?page=79#findComment-664097 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted April 15, 2024 Author Share #944 Posted April 15, 2024 1 hour ago, jfa.series1 said: I think I spotted the problem on your last pic: the thin metal plate goes under the hinge. The thin metal plate is under the hinge. Just an optical illusion. I had considered removing the hatch and rubber boots. Cleaning them up. Reseal them but install the hatch to make sure they seat low enough. I really think mine had sealant on them when I removed the old ones. Sort of the wrong direction but I think it's gonna have to be done. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/55369-1971-hls30-14938-lily-build/?page=79#findComment-664105 Share on other sites More sharing options...
emccallum Posted April 15, 2024 Share #945 Posted April 15, 2024 What fun would it be if it worked right the first time! 3 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/55369-1971-hls30-14938-lily-build/?page=79#findComment-664106 Share on other sites More sharing options...
inline6 Posted April 15, 2024 Share #946 Posted April 15, 2024 (edited) 17 hours ago, Patcon said: I have a problem with the hatch hinges though. When I lower the hatch, the hinge hits the rubber hinge cups. I am thinking there is too much sealant under them. I can force the hatch down the last few inches but you can tell the hinges don't move nay more. Can some body vouch for the hinges being supposed to clear all the way closed. When I lower the hinges down I can't get the hatch to flush up with the roof because of this interference. I am not getting interference there... at least nothing I can feel. Is it hitting the rubber, or the metal strip of the plate that goes over the rubber. The metal plate is thin and easily bent. If it is that which is interfering, you could try tapping it down with a hammer and a punch. If a lot of sealant is poofing the rubber up, causing the interference, then yeah, you may need to put attention to removing that. Edited April 15, 2024 by inline6 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/55369-1971-hls30-14938-lily-build/?page=79#findComment-664113 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted April 15, 2024 Author Share #947 Posted April 15, 2024 It feels like the inference is the rubber. I held it down with clamps when I installed them. I should have installed the hatch instead Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/55369-1971-hls30-14938-lily-build/?page=79#findComment-664121 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted April 28, 2024 Author Share #948 Posted April 28, 2024 Well I messed with the hatch hinges today. Big sighhh... 😞 I took the bolts out and pulled the hinges, backer plates and the hinge cups out. I cleaned off the excess sealant and set the hinges back in place. At the the lowest location here is the RH hinge all the way down... Edge of the bolt holes almost even with the gutter Here's the LH side No where close! That's weird...?? It's hitting the pocket. The RH pocket The LH pocket Different locations!! Look at the panel edge under the gutter RH LH The car was not assembled even on both sides from the factory!! So I took the die grinder to it and clearanced it. Then drove it down some more with a punch and hammer. Unfortunately, I have a hole now. So let's weld on our nice yellow car. 😞 Backed it with a piece of copper. I'll procrastinate on this for a few days probably. Will be an awful welding position and will probably get burnt some. As I recall I had to weld one or both of the hinge tabs back to the hatch years ago when I was doing body work. I'm betting that was the LH side that broke from being flexed back and forth from years of use. I could go look but I'm too lazy to dig through 80 pages of posts. So note to others check these pockets for clearance before you get this far along. 😉 1 2 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/55369-1971-hls30-14938-lily-build/?page=79#findComment-664560 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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