1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build

[Patcon]

I also worked on rekeying some door locks today. I have an ignition key I like and I want one key for the whole car

So I played at making tiny springs!! @emccallum

He are the assorted's. Spare locks, replacement parts, lockset pliers, seals, etc

Here is a first attempt. It was actually one of the best attempts

I am using some orthodontic wire. There was some that was about 0.015" dia and some that was more like 0.010" dia.. It's difficult to get the coils to wrap close to each other.

I used a small drill bit as an arbor, like 0.063" dia

I found that the thicker wire was a little too heavy for the key door. It installs ok but the door has too much resistance. The thinner wire worked better was more difficult to make neat looking springs

Disassembled the lock

Lightly blasted the lock case and the inside of the cap. Polished the cap with the buffing wheel. A piece of wire helps keep it from getting away from you

Repinned the lockset. I only have 4 different wafers and it seemed like I needed another size. I reworked one with a buffing wheel to make it work for now. Also my replacement wafers don't have the little tab on the side that lock them into the tumbler like the factory ones do. So reassemble is a little trickier.

One finished lockset

 

 

[Patcon]

5 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

The switch is connected to ground. However, the positive side on the light, should be connected to the ignition circuit. Unplug the wire from the brake switch. Put the positive lead from your voltmeter on the wire, and touch the negative lead to ground. See if you have voltage. Let us know how much. Then we know where we need to go from there.

Do I need the combo switches in for this test? I just pulled them to have them refurbished...

[Captain Obvious]

36 minutes ago, Patcon said:

When I turn the ignition to off the brake light in the gauges comes on. If I unplug the brake failure switch lead it goes out. Why?

Short answer? Because your brake failure switch is indicating a brake failure. In other words, the switch is closed.

Long answer? I'll let @SteveJ work you through it! 

But I suspect the problem in inside the brake switch. Something like your little slidey piston is all gummed up and stuck on the "fail" position:

Or maybe one of your tiny metering orifice holes is gummed shut with 50 years of gelatinized brake fluid and deteriorated rubber:

Edited January 26 by Captain Obvious

[Patcon]

6 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

Short answer? Because your brake failure switch is indicating a brake failure. In other words, the switch is closed.

Long answer? I'll let @SteveJ work you through it! 

I sort of thought that too. We bled the brakes one circuit at a time but I would have thought the switch would recenter itself after both circuits made pressure??

Also it's not on until I turn the switch to the lock position. It's off in the "acc" and "on" positions

[Captain Obvious]

Oh wait... Sorry, I missed that detail. The brake light is on when the key is in the OFF position!!!

So all that stuff I wrote... Forget all that. It's more complicated than just a brake warning switch.

So I'll shut up here and wait while @SteveJ provides some REAL help instead of the knee-jerk blather I posted above.  

I mean, your brake warning switch may still be screwed up, but there are some electrical gremlins at work here too.

Edited January 26 by Captain Obvious

[SteveJ]

18 minutes ago, Patcon said:

Do I need the combo switches in for this test? I just pulled them to have them refurbished...

If the light is still coming on with the car off and the wire plugged into the switch, no, you don't need the combo switch in.

[Captain Obvious]

23 hours ago, Patcon said:

When I turn the ignition to off the brake light in the gauges comes on. If I unplug the brake failure switch lead it goes out. Why?

So I did a little thinking and looking and I have a theory.... This time a little less knee-jerk.

If the brake light only comes on in the LOCK position, my theory is that you plugged the connector onto the back of the ignition switch 180 degrees out of position. I don't have a harness here to see if that's physically possible or if things are mechanically keyed, but if there is no key, you might have done that? I admit, it would be unlike you to do something like that, but who knows... In a flurry of hurried activity, not lining up the unpopulated connector cavity and all that?

And if you did, it can cause exactly what you described.

[Patcon]

So I was intrigued by this idea, so I had to walk down to the shop right away.

The plug is on correctly...

On another note the brake light is out with the combo switches removed.

I think I will go ahead and have them rebuilt and then proceed from there

 

[Captain Obvious]

10 hours ago, Patcon said:

The plug is on correctly...

I figured. But it was worth a look!

[Captain Obvious]

So the unusual nature of this issue has me intrigued. I know you said you were going to have the combo switch thing rebuilt, but in the meantime, I had a question.

Are you running an old style single screw mount ignition switch, or has the whole assy been replaced sometime over the years with the newer two screw style? Here's a hoovered pic of the difference. Older single screw mount on the left, newer two screw mount on the right:

[Patcon]

11 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Are you running an old style single screw mount ignition switch, or has the whole assy been replaced sometime over the years with the newer two screw style? Here's a hoovered pic of the difference. Older single screw mount on the left, newer two screw mount on the right:

BTW these were my connections on the switches

[Patcon]

@Captain Obvious

@inline6

How do you disassemble the hatch lock tumbler?