74 260Z will not crank with a key and no electrical power going to the switch at all. I have tried 3 switches I followed the wiring diagrams and color coding after removing a kill switch and external start button. Because it has a Crane ignition nothing is activated. Cranks with a remote starter but not with key and still no juice to the primary. All the connections for the interlock are tied off. This such a simple car and yet I am lost all fuses and fusable links are good. Could it be that yellow wire from the top of the starter that ties into the switch? If I can get power to the switch the Crane system will sense properly and start and hopefully run again.(switch rear connector BW,BY,BR,WR,BB) Battery + and link - to bolt on bellhousing and yellow to spade lug on solenoid.

Check the ammeter shunt.

9 hours ago, ZBrat1946 said:

no electrical power going to the switch at all.

I have tried 3 switches

after removing a kill switch and external start button.

Because it has a Crane ignition nothing is activated.

no juice to the primary.

All the connections for the interlock are tied off.

(switch rear connector BW,BY,BR,WR,BB) Battery + and link - to bolt on bellhousing and yellow to spade lug on solenoid.

Doesn't look like you're really understanding how the power flows through the wires and various parts.  You said that there's no power to the switch, but you replaced the switch three times anyway, even though it was receiving no power.  How can it do its job if there's no power there?

The problem apparently happened after working on the wiring, the kill switch and external starter.  Go back to that area and figure out what you did.  The Crane ignition has little to do with anything.  Tying off wires doesn't really make any sense.  Some of those wires might need to be connected.  Did you do the interlock at the same time as the kill switch and starter?  

Not sure what all the stuff at the end is supposed to mean.  You should be measuring voltage at various points along a circuit to see when it's there and when it's not.  A meter or test light is needed.

I took the shunt out and opened it up and both 3A fuses are good still nothing. I reconnected each pin on the back of the switch and when I bought the car they gave me extra switches. I am recharging the battery so it will be fully charged. According to the color codes I reconnected all the wires should I try running a separate wire from the starter to the switch? I have a volt meter and test light

Do you still have the emergency switch on the right inner fender? Reconnect your interlock system, fasten the seatbelts, press the emergency switch button, and see if it works.

Yes that is on the right inner fender and plugged in I will try that but what if I run another wire along the yellow from the starter to the back of the switch?

2 hours ago, ZBrat1946 said:

 I have a volt meter and test light

Take voltage measurements, or use your test light, at the plug to the ignition switch until you find at least one wire with battery power.  If you don't have any power at the switch it won't help to run any extra wires from the switch.

A methodical approach is best, especially when you're not sure of what you're doing.

anyone has there ears on this is what I have 5 wires that should go to the switch(red/blue,black/white,re/white,black/blue,yellow/black) no power. Starter grounded all leads tight yellow wire has new connector. Everything is rust free all fuses look good including shunts  Will only crank with remote but still no power to energize the Crane system.

3 minutes ago, ZBrat1946 said:

anyone has there ears on this is what I have 5 wires that should go to the switch(red/blue,black/white,re/white,black/blue,yellow/black) no power.

Will only crank with remote but still no power to energize the Crane system.

I'm not trying to make you look bad, but are you saying that there is no power to the switch?  Or just no power to the starter and Crane box?  You keep saying the same things but you're not really communicating anything.

If you have no power to any of the wires that go to the switch then forget about the Crane box, and the starter.  They get their power through the ignition switch.  No power to the switch = no power from the switch.  

And there's nothing special about the Crane system.  It doesn't get "energized".  It just needs a power source, as does the coil.  You should be measuring power at the coil terminals, with the key On, not the Crane system.

 

we fixed the power first a plate was bolted to the subframe and made into a new body ground replace in line power to ammeter shunt with a circuit breaker. Now we have a turn signal issue to contend with after we recharge the battery and static time the engine. If I get her running I may just focus on the body and do any electrical before putting final color coats over the primer. So many relays I need to study up.

Hmmm...The 3 A fuses in the ammeter shunt are for the ammeter only, not the other circuits. Does anything work? Headlights? Horn? Brake lights? Bueller?

Battery needs recharging will try to get it started the right turn signal won't turn off but at least we have power. I have to disconnect the battery to cut off that turn signal.