jlenownnab Posted June 30, 2016 Share #1 Posted June 30, 2016 (edited) Hello, I have searched previous threads and am not coming up with an answer. I have no power at the signal wire from the voltage regulator to the altenator. I have replaced the altenator, then the battery, then I thought maybe I got a bad altenator and replaced it again after getting it bench tested, then the voltage regulator in that order. Any ideas?? Thank you in advance. Edited June 30, 2016 by jlenownnab there are a couple wires not hooked up to anything Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/55727-alternator-not-powering-battery/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted June 30, 2016 Share #2 Posted June 30, 2016 What do you mean by Signal wire? The external regulator alternators use an F and an N wire. And you don't have anything connected to the BAT post, except the condenser. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/55727-alternator-not-powering-battery/#findComment-497799 Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlenownnab Posted June 30, 2016 Author Share #3 Posted June 30, 2016 I was told by my mechanic to post that on the Forum unfortunately I do not know how to trace the electrical system and have somebody doing that for me. I will have him go to that other post thank you. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/55727-alternator-not-powering-battery/#findComment-497800 Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlenownnab Posted July 1, 2016 Author Share #4 Posted July 1, 2016 if we have power at the altenator and the voltage regulator, is there anything else that could cause no output? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/55727-alternator-not-powering-battery/#findComment-497805 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted July 1, 2016 Share #5 Posted July 1, 2016 What year is your car? I think that you might have an internally regulated alternator. That's what your picture looks like. Your mechanic probably thought it was a direct swap, and probably meant Sense, not Signal. If he did install an internally regulated alternator (1978 - 1983 Z and ZX) then he has to do some wiring or buy the adapter below. It's not a bolt-on swap. I'd buy the adapter, it's a plug-in and contains the diode to keep the engine from running when the key is turned off. Here a link- http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4067 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/55727-alternator-not-powering-battery/#findComment-497806 Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted July 1, 2016 Share #6 Posted July 1, 2016 From what I remember you should have a T shaped plug in for the F & N, a wire o the E or ground and a screw down terminal on the BAT. If those are connected it should pull or magnet like pull a screwdriver to the center of the backside. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/55727-alternator-not-powering-battery/#findComment-497807 Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlenownnab Posted July 1, 2016 Author Share #7 Posted July 1, 2016 I have a 75, he said I should consider putting a internally reg alt in but I like to keep things original. I asked orielys for a alternator for a my tachometer isn't working either, not sure if that is related? he prob meant sense, he said he has to get back to old school thinking. there is a "t" shaped plug, I don't remember seeing a screw down terminal on bat. where is that coming from? thanks. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/55727-alternator-not-powering-battery/#findComment-497810 Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted July 1, 2016 Share #8 Posted July 1, 2016 Check your IGN fuse. I blew mine fooling with the alt. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/55727-alternator-not-powering-battery/#findComment-497811 Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted July 1, 2016 Share #9 Posted July 1, 2016 I can show pics in the morning. I'm using my phone now, sorry. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/55727-alternator-not-powering-battery/#findComment-497812 Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlenownnab Posted July 1, 2016 Author Share #10 Posted July 1, 2016 I asked orielys for an alt for a 75 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/55727-alternator-not-powering-battery/#findComment-497813 Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlenownnab Posted July 1, 2016 Author Share #11 Posted July 1, 2016 pics would be great in morning, thankyou. will check fuse too. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/55727-alternator-not-powering-battery/#findComment-497814 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted July 1, 2016 Share #12 Posted July 1, 2016 Check for F and N molded in to the back of the alternator by the T plug (the right circle in my picture). Oreillys has been known to give the wrong parts. If they gave you the wrong alternator it will have S and L molded in to the back. You can also see BAT molded in where the charging wire goes (the left circle). I think the external regulator systems might not get power to N until the key is on. Your mechanic should know these things. Is he a professional or just somebody you know? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/55727-alternator-not-powering-battery/#findComment-497817 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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