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I really appreciate all yalls help, but I really think this is just out of my league and have already spent a great deal of time, I think its best at this point to get a professional involved so i dont end up doing more damage.

Again thanks for yalls help, I think i at least made some progress with the C3 connection point


1 hour ago, Zed Head said:

You're on mile #25 of the marathon.  So close.

I dont really know where to go from here, and as I thought I seem to have made things worse, I started to put everything back together and now the fuse blows as soon as I connect C3, im guessing I messed up a ground somewhere.... :huh:

And I have run a marathon a few times, this is much harder :P

 

 

.....Is there suppose to be a ground from the radio to the frame right next to it? I remember removing a ground wire from there that was from the old/replacement radio but i dont know what it was suppose to hook up to????

Edited by surfsnake2
4 hours ago, SteveJ said:

You haven't messed up anything. Your grounds are fine. At least inspect the exterior light sockets - front, rear, and side markers - for signs of corrosion.

I appreciate the confidence that I havent messed anything up, but before I started all of this the fuse would only blow when the parking lights are on, now as soon as i put a fuse in their is a small spark and the fuse immediately pops.

How have i not messed something up if this wasnt happening before? Ive only had everything taken apart for about 24 hours or so It doesnt seem like enough time for corrosion :P

Maybe a different approach may help you. Try putting a light bulb in place of the fuse, then go around to all the lights or other accessories and wiggle them around while someone watches the brightness of the light bulb. Look for changes in the intensity as you manipulate things. if there is rust or some other circuit path that is leaking current, hopefully mussing around with the connectors will disturb it enough to point it out.

  • Like 1

You have been moving the harness around. This is not a ground issue or lack of ground somewhere. If you have a small nick in a wire somewhere the movement of unplugging and replugging can give the short better contact causing the short to be faster and more pronounced. Actually the more significant short should be easier to find...  

1 hour ago, Dave WM said:

Maybe a different approach may help you. Try putting a light bulb in place of the fuse, then go around to all the lights or other accessories and wiggle them around while someone watches the brightness of the light bulb. Look for changes in the intensity as you manipulate things. if there is rust or some other circuit path that is leaking current, hopefully mussing around with the connectors will disturb it enough to point it out.

That light bulb he's talking about is a dome light bulb, the interior light on the roof.  I bought one from Advance when I first had problems with my 280's side lights.  I took the fuse and found the right length bulb.  FYI

2 hours ago, siteunseen said:

Not trying to be a d*** but are you sure the park lights are off when you get that spark?  I think one of your side marker sockets has gotten rusty, mine did that.  The drain hole in the lense was stopped up.

haha, yeah i checked to make sure they were, that was my first thought.

 

I did notice though, that as soon as i plug in C3, there is a click, or like a ding sound, and it is coming from this(picture below)... What is it??

20160717_104825.jpg

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