zhead240 Posted September 8, 2016 Share #1 Posted September 8, 2016 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/56144-radiator/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted September 8, 2016 Share #2 Posted September 8, 2016 Get you a 280 3 row for $100. Sits 2" lower than the 240 radiator so you have to be more careful but it'll cool a lot better. You can also add a full shroud on the 280 radiator for even better air flow. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/56144-radiator/#findComment-502795 Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted September 8, 2016 Share #3 Posted September 8, 2016 Most Rad shops could solder that back on for you, but you would have to pull it from the car. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/56144-radiator/#findComment-502798 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freez74 Posted September 9, 2016 Share #4 Posted September 9, 2016 I have successfully stuck those back on with JB Weld. You have to press the tab down firmly while the epoxy is setting. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/56144-radiator/#findComment-502826 Share on other sites More sharing options...
26th-Z Posted September 9, 2016 Share #5 Posted September 9, 2016 Yes, just pull the radiator out and take it to a radiator shop. Normal maintenance and repair. Don't butcher up your lovely car with a replacement 3-row with a shroud. Or, JB Weld? What on earth are you thinking? 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/56144-radiator/#findComment-502827 Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfa.series1 Posted September 9, 2016 Share #6 Posted September 9, 2016 Get that radiator professionally repaired, including a flush and pressure test while its at the shop - money well spent. Have the shop pass on any quick paint job (if they still do that), then clean up the tanks and frame and give it a good coat or two of gloss enamel. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/56144-radiator/#findComment-502831 Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted September 9, 2016 Share #7 Posted September 9, 2016 6 hours ago, 26th-Z said: Don't butcher up your lovely car with a replacement 3-row with a shroud. That's an unnecessary personal attack against me. 95% of the members on this forum have made modifications to our cars. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/56144-radiator/#findComment-502845 Share on other sites More sharing options...
26th-Z Posted September 9, 2016 Share #8 Posted September 9, 2016 28 minutes ago, siteunseen said: That's an unnecessary personal attack against me. 95% of the members on this forum have made modifications to our cars. Well, your name is Mud, isn't it? Where in my sentence is there any mention of you personally? Look, zhead240 has a really nice car that he paid a lot of money for. Would you like it if your mechanic repaired your nice car the way you suggested? Chill out, dude. Drink a beer and enjoy your ride. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/56144-radiator/#findComment-502847 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikes Z car Posted September 9, 2016 Share #9 Posted September 9, 2016 My 240Z radiator came unsoldered at that same spot, same side too. My VIn is 907 I wonder if some radiators were soldered by the same guy on a Monday. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/56144-radiator/#findComment-502854 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Namerow Posted September 10, 2016 Share #10 Posted September 10, 2016 hmmm... My car's VIN is 5/70 and the tab that came unsoldered was the lower pssgr side. I think that what we have here may be a process or material problem, rather than a worker problem. Fortunately, the fix is easy. And on the 'glass half-full' side of the equation, I can't think of too many other places on the 240Z where things just 'broke'. 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/56144-radiator/#findComment-502869 Share on other sites More sharing options...
gundee Posted September 10, 2016 Share #11 Posted September 10, 2016 My 2/72 build did the same thing at the exact same spot. In my case the radiator had the core replaced as the origional was plugged up too bad to flush. A while after I got it back this happened so it could have been done poorly at the radiator shop. I took it back and they repaired it and never a problem after that. Over 20 years ago now. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/56144-radiator/#findComment-502871 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Consigli Posted September 11, 2016 Share #12 Posted September 11, 2016 On 9/8/2016 at 3:14 PM, siteunseen said: Get you a 280 3 row for $100. Sits 2" lower than the 240 radiator so you have to be more careful but it'll cool a lot better. You can also add a full shroud on the 280 radiator for even better air flow. Pull that radiator and have a shop fix it right. And have them also flush it and/or rod it out. And a good shop will also paint it up nice. Glue or JB weld is not a legitimate fix. And siteunseen offers an excellent alternative. A 3 row and shroud is the best cooling solution. Radiators with shrouds work much better. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/56144-radiator/#findComment-502933 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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