Captain Obvious Posted March 25, 2017 Share #13 Posted March 25, 2017 Mee too!! I'll race ya! Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/57339-thee-su-float-level-tool/?page=2#findComment-516364 Share on other sites More sharing options...
240260280 Posted March 25, 2017 Author Share #14 Posted March 25, 2017 OK guys I tried to like you both but big brother would not let me share some luv! 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/57339-thee-su-float-level-tool/?page=2#findComment-516371 Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVZEE2 Posted March 25, 2017 Share #15 Posted March 25, 2017 Making the pivot point of the float adjustable - threaded "ears" or posts with external screws maybe - seems like it could have possibilities. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/57339-thee-su-float-level-tool/?page=2#findComment-516372 Share on other sites More sharing options...
240260280 Posted March 25, 2017 Author Share #16 Posted March 25, 2017 I'm running to the patent office! Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/57339-thee-su-float-level-tool/?page=2#findComment-516373 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Namerow Posted March 26, 2017 Share #17 Posted March 26, 2017 On 3/25/2017 at 9:21 AM, zKars said: I've thought about making the bolt that mounts the fuel bowl into an eccentric/offset bolt with a 0.5 cm offset... Someday I'll have time to make one...., two I guess. I think you're may be on to something, Jim. However, the 'bolt' (actually more like a long stud) is non-rotational because it's designed to be firmly tightened into the blind threaded hole in the float bowl casting. That means that you wouldn't be able to rotate it to a new position (to take advantage of the eccentricity you're proposing) unless you were prepared to leave the threaded stud-to-casting joint 'loose' after you'd found the bolt orientation position you want. Maybe a thin jamb nut? If that would work (and I'm sure that one or all of Capt Obvious, Blue, Patcon, Grannyknot and maybe even Z Therapy are about to start work on this ), then it would seem that the final touch would be to slot the other end of the 'bolt' (where the lock nut) to allow use of a screwdriver to turn the bolt to make adjustments. Adjusting sequence would be: loosen lock nut on end of bolt loosen jamb nut where bolt fits into float casting turn bolt until desired fuel level is observed inside carb nozzle tighten jamb nut tighten lock nut job done One additional thought: I don't think the bolt offset needs to be more than 5mm. That would provide an up-down adjustment of +/- 5mm for the float bowl. If you set the float 'tang' adjustment to the FSM-recommended setting to start with, an additional +/- 5mm of adjustment should be more than enough to zero in on the desired fuel height in the carb nozzle. Gentlemen: Start your lathes. Report back here in a week, with pictures (to prove that it really happened). Whoever wins owes me two finished prototype eccentric bolts. 2 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/57339-thee-su-float-level-tool/?page=2#findComment-516447 Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted March 27, 2017 Share #18 Posted March 27, 2017 I used that Float tool and it is handy. Problem is that the tube(plastic) is epoxied in place and the fuel started to eat at it- in my case anyway. Now granted - I left them on the bowls over a couple of days while in the garage trouble shooting. If the tubes were actually threaded and tefloned in place I don't think it would have been a problem. I did send mine back. In theory it worked well , but function was limited. In the end- I relied on a set of depth mics and the 10 turn rule for the nozzles. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/57339-thee-su-float-level-tool/?page=2#findComment-516495 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Obvious Posted March 27, 2017 Share #19 Posted March 27, 2017 (edited) I've been thinking about the external adjustment concept a little more, and while I believe it's possible, I'm concerned about the amount of potential confusion and tuning issues it may CAUSE as opposed to fix. Just think about it... If you can externally adjust the height of the entire bowl assemble WRT to the nozzle, you can effectively get the fuel height correct even if the bowl level is in correct. Conversely... You can get the fuel level WRONG even if the bowl level is CORRECT. Can you just imagine the amount of documentation required to keep that situation under control? Haha!! Who want's to try to explain how to tune that to people who already don't really know what they're doing? I've got my nozzles six turns down and my plugs are black. Should I lower my bowls a little? Please advise!!! Edited March 27, 2017 by Captain Obvious Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/57339-thee-su-float-level-tool/?page=2#findComment-516505 Share on other sites More sharing options...
240260280 Posted March 27, 2017 Author Share #20 Posted March 27, 2017 I was thinking the same. The reference will need to be away from the bowl as you say. A bit complex but a gauge (basically a flat piece on metal that stops at the 20mm down point which is affixed to the non-eccentric part/non moving part will do the trick. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/57339-thee-su-float-level-tool/?page=2#findComment-516520 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stanley Posted March 27, 2017 Share #21 Posted March 27, 2017 I agree with C.O. in post 19. Also, due to engine tilt, the fuel level in the front bowl needs to be a couple mm lower than in the rear bowl. For me, the thing that makes setting the floats a hassle, even with a sight glass, is bending that tang on the float to adjust the level. Fuel level is too low so you bend it down, then it overflows so you bend it up, repeat and repeat to get it more or less right. Took me about 10 tries last time. Adjust, remove/replace the lid and run the engine each time Seems like it would be fairly easy (OK, maybe difficult) to put a small captive screw between the tang and plastic float. The tang would be initially bent in a low position, turning the screw would raise it. You could figure how many turns would raise it one mm. Need to look at on old float to see if it would work. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/57339-thee-su-float-level-tool/?page=2#findComment-516532 Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted March 28, 2017 Share #22 Posted March 28, 2017 I think the money's remaking these, I need four when you get there. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/57339-thee-su-float-level-tool/?page=2#findComment-516569 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Obvious Posted March 28, 2017 Share #23 Posted March 28, 2017 I've heard of them, but I've never looked into any details. What's the big deal about those Grose jets? What makes them so cool? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/57339-thee-su-float-level-tool/?page=2#findComment-516571 Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVZEE2 Posted March 28, 2017 Share #24 Posted March 28, 2017 23 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said: I've heard of them, but I've never looked into any details. What's the big deal about those Grose jets? What makes them so cool? "2 balls do the trick" Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/57339-thee-su-float-level-tool/?page=2#findComment-516572 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilbur
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