Remove 1977 280z intake

[JSM]

1 hour ago, Jaymanbikes said:

Here is where I am at now, lots of cleaning ahead.


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I love an use the blue painters tape too!  So handy.

[Patcon]

Why not just leave the AC connected and move it out of the way? I am not sure that's possible but it is what I have done in the past on other vehicles. Then pull the engine if needed...

[Jaymanbikes]

Why not just leave the AC connected and move it out of the way? I am not sure that's possible but it is what I have done in the past on other vehicles. Then pull the engine if needed...

I have some rust, surface primarily that is below where one of the copper lines transitions into the flex line. It is from an old brake fluid leak. My thinking was that if I yank the motor I would like to take care of that properly.

I have decided against yanking the motor not enough time to take it that far.


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[siteunseen]

Yeah that would be best done next winter, enjoy it this summer.  You may blow her up hearing that header screaming.

Cheap walmart spray foam oven cleaner works good as does lacquer thinner cleaning the motor up in car. Simple Green with Scotch-Brite pads too.  I bought a gallon of commercial de-greaser from a local chemical supply that worked great undiluted, make sure and wear some kind of rubber gloves though, if that stuff gets under your cuticles and finger nails it's like what I imagine bamboo felt like in the Vietnam warm.

[Jaymanbikes]

Yeah that would be best done next winter, enjoy it this summer.  You may blow her up hearing that header screaming.
Cheap walmart spray foam oven cleaner works good as does lacquer thinner cleaning the motor up in car. Simple Green with Scotch-Brite pads too.  I bought a gallon of commercial de-greaser from a local chemical supply that worked great undiluted, make sure and wear some kind of rubber gloves though, if that stuff gets under your cuticles and finger nails it's like what I imagine bamboo felt like in the Vietnam warm.

Thanks for the tip. Here is a little mock up pic. Lots of work ahead.


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[gwri8]

Looks good!

[siteunseen]

Did you get that from RossiZ?  I'm thinking you did but don't remember too good.

It looks really cool beside that black valve cover.

[Jaymanbikes]

Did you get that from RossiZ?  I'm thinking you did but don't remember too good.
It looks really cool beside that black valve cover.

Yes I did, I had it powder coated and the EGR welded up.


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[siteunseen]

I thought something looked odd with the webbing on there.  It's not an N-42 but a N-47 with the EGR welded up.  Nice! 

Looking back maybe it is an N-42?  Anyways it looks good.

Edited April 4, 2017 by siteunseen

[Jaymanbikes]

I thought something looked odd with the webbing on there.  It's not an N-42 but a N-47 with the EGR welded up.  Nice! 

No webbing, that's the shield, look closely, it's a slightly different color. Not sure I like that though.


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[Jaymanbikes]

Finally I have it mostly put back together.  I had all the metal parts Zinc plated which was a lot of work, fortunately I had two of everything so I was able to disassemble the car after I got the parts back.  I didn't have to trim any of the heat shield with my header installed which was great.   

A few details and then the hood can go back on and off to the muffler shop.  I purchased a 2.5" exhaust system from MSA awhile back and it hangs way low back near the diff.  I suspect I will just have to have a custom piece welded up to get it right.  

 

[siteunseen]

Great looking engine bay! You did a fine job with that.

Those 2.5 exhaust can be a pain, taking it to a shop isn't too expensive.  I paid $50 to have mine tucked up better. There's that cut out on the driver's side of the differential that it fits in but that wasn't made for such a larger pipe.  I fought with mine then threw in the towel and the $50. Good investment for me. Good way to spend $50, I mean. That's just a couple of days of beer.

Edited April 23, 2017 by siteunseen