siteunseen Posted January 2, 2019 Share #109 Posted January 2, 2019 Charles and Cody that looks great. I saturate my fresh blasted aluminum with satin clear from Eastwood. I'm always happy with the results, no greasy hand prints after installing. Takes about three soakings with my hvlp gun to get to the soaked level. Won't take no more. 2 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/59089-codys-goon/?page=10#findComment-565028 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted January 19, 2019 Author Share #110 Posted January 19, 2019 What is the recommended sealer for the case halves? I thought about aviation gasket maker. the brown sticky stuff. Also should the plugs get a sealer? What kind? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/59089-codys-goon/?page=10#findComment-566263 Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted January 20, 2019 Share #111 Posted January 20, 2019 Two of my transmissions have an orange sealer between them. It's like a silicone product but I have know idea of a name, sorry. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/59089-codys-goon/?page=10#findComment-566282 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Maras Posted January 20, 2019 Share #112 Posted January 20, 2019 I've used Mr. Gasket RTV for years. Probably the orange sealer that Cliff described. 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/59089-codys-goon/?page=10#findComment-566285 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted January 20, 2019 Author Share #113 Posted January 20, 2019 RTV it is then. Any ideas on thread sealant or not? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/59089-codys-goon/?page=10#findComment-566293 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Maras Posted January 20, 2019 Share #114 Posted January 20, 2019 I've always used anti-seize thread lube. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/59089-codys-goon/?page=10#findComment-566294 Share on other sites More sharing options...
240260280 Posted January 20, 2019 Share #115 Posted January 20, 2019 I think most sealants will work fine. I always ensured the mating surfaces were clean and used the brown aviation sealant with no problems. I would not use any sealant on an engine where a solid blob can be hidden then come loose and clog a passage. Permatex make two nice gasket making sealants: Permatex® Form-A-Gasket® No. 1 Sealant (hard setting) Permatex® Form-A-Gasket® No. 2 Sealant (non-setting)<<< use this one if the aviation sealant molasses is not enough. The transmission plugs and switches are difficult to remove. The tapered threads do not seem to work loose and hold nearly too well. Some propane helps with that. To minimize this in the future. I use antiseize when reattaching with no probems. If I were racing, a blue thread locker and paint marker to identify rotation would be the way to go if safety wires were not available. 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/59089-codys-goon/?page=10#findComment-566296 Share on other sites More sharing options...
240260280 Posted January 20, 2019 Share #116 Posted January 20, 2019 More research: There is a #3 form a gasket: US Part Number: 80017 Canada Part Number: 80017 Permatex® Aviation Form-A-Gasket® No. 3 Sealant Liquid (The good old molasses) Two more non-hardening: Permatex® Super “300” Form-A-Gasket® Sealant Permatex® PermaShield™ Fuel Resistant Gasket Dressing & Flange Sealant (similar to Hylomar) 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/59089-codys-goon/?page=10#findComment-566297 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted February 24, 2019 Author Share #117 Posted February 24, 2019 Is this flange supposed to be bent down on the fire wall behind the valve cover? I tried to look at some google images but wasn't sure that was how it was supposed to be Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/59089-codys-goon/?page=10#findComment-569211 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted February 24, 2019 Author Share #118 Posted February 24, 2019 On another note we finally got the 5 speed in Codys car, right before we had to start disassembly for paint work. For the most part it drives ok except for 2nd gear. It's baulky going 1st - 2nd and 3rd -2nd. So how hard is it to replace the 2nd gear synchros? Does it make sense to just do the 2nd gear ones? If they are not too far in, I would almost rather do the 2nd gear synchros versus tearing the whole thing down while the car is in "paint jail". we had to fab a custom transmission mount because the 280zx is several inches longer than the 4 speed that was in there. We also had to get the drive shaft shortened too. Not a straight bolt in affair for any others who want to try it. We also had to cut the tunnel because the shifter comes up further back. We will weld in a piece up front to give a stock looking install Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/59089-codys-goon/?page=10#findComment-569212 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Maras Posted February 24, 2019 Share #119 Posted February 24, 2019 2nd is always the first one to go bad and 3rd is usually close behind it. I think you'll find more than just 2nd worn. If I wanted to go cheap, I'd remove both housings, take a good look, check clearances and replace the obvious bad bits. However, (there's always a however) if time and money are available, all new synchros, all new bearings, and all new seals will freshen it properly. You'll have more info for decision making when you take a look inside. We know you'll "do the right thing". Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/59089-codys-goon/?page=10#findComment-569225 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted February 24, 2019 Share #120 Posted February 24, 2019 3 hours ago, Patcon said: On another note we finally got the 5 speed in Codys car, right before we had to start disassembly for paint work. For the most part it drives ok except for 2nd gear. It's baulky going 1st - 2nd and 3rd -2nd. What does "baulky" mean? I had an old transmission that took a little while to wear itself back in. The first few drives were tough. The "cones" are steel and can rust. Also, for old transmissions, Redline MT90 is great stuff. Makes a difference worth the extra cost. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/59089-codys-goon/?page=10#findComment-569234 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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