Rear wheel bearing install issue

[Captain Obvious]

2 hours ago, fairladyz432 said:

Is the rear bearing similar to say the front bearing where the tighter you torque the nut the harder it is to turn?

No. The rear bearing's "tightness" (preload) should be pretty much independent of the nut torque. And there should never ever be any visible metal to metal contact.

I'm clearly grasping at straws here, but I have heard about severe rear wheel bearing failures where the outboard bearing actually seizes and starts spinning the outer race inside the strut housing. When this happens, the bore where the bearing is supposed to be a tight fit is all wallowed out and the bearing flops around in there instead of being properly located. And if it's wallowed out enough, the dust shield might make contact where it isn't supposed to?

With that in mind, what happens if you just drop an outboard bearing into the hole in the strut housing? Does it fall all the way to the bottom of the hole and rattle around down there, or does it require force to get it into place?

Can you please post a pic of where the interference is happening? A pic of the two parts that are making contact?

Also another WAG... I know you have the outboard bearing on the stub axle correctly, but is it possible to put the stub axle in backwards? In other words... If the outside diameter of both bearings is the same, you could actually put the entire stub axle in backwards? You know which side is supposed to get the wheel, right?     No offence intended... It's a calling.

[Captain Obvious]

And if you already tried your old bearings and had the same issue, I don't think a third (OEM) set is going to render any different results.

[Zed Head]

I was thinking about the "wallowing out" issue when I just jumped on here and there it is.  Pretty sure that John Coffey has described it and maybe J Mortensen.  It's a race car problem.

But, that dimension is in the FSM also.  Hate to repeat it, but the early FSM's are excellent maintenance manuals.  Much better than the later years.

[Patcon]

On 2/8/2018 at 2:56 PM, 240260280 said:

 

 

When I look at this picture from Blue, there seems to be a washer under the inner hub piece against the inner bearing(shown as white piece on left of lt. blue part). Is that in place? If you left it out it's gonna be too short.

[fairladyz432]

Yep the stun axle is facing the right way. I’ll take a quick pic of how it’s installed. I just bought a caliper gauge that I will try to measure the races and see if they are within spec. The weird thing is that both driver and passenger bearingings bind or get stuck as I tighten the axle nut so don’t believe there’s anything wrong with the bearing housing themselves. Last thing I think that maybe incorrect are the inner bearings which I think will have to come out for inspection. Really lost at this point. Might even go as far as posting a video just so you all have a better idea what’s going on. 

Also the washer is for sure used with the axle nut. 

[Zed Head]

Could be that the axle and/or bearing removal procedure caused a problem.  Bent something maybe.  Did you use a slide hammer or a lever it out with a pry bar.? Maybe everything is right but you just have a small bent area.  A ding.

When looking at Blue's pictures study the blue part and the black "distance" piece.  The purpose of the distance piece is to hold the inner race at about the same distance as the outer race.  The chart in the FSM shows that they calculated a 0.001 to 0.002" preload offset.  That's small.  But there's a "huge" overlap of tolerances, so it almost doesn't matter.  It's weird, not even attributable to translation error, that the numbers don't just match, or they just say that one can't be more than xxx thousandths bigger/smaller than the other.  Basically they just want the inner race and the outer race to be on the same plane, within a few thousandths.

I also just noticed that they typo'ed a 6 for a 5. 

[Patcon]

11 hours ago, fairladyz432 said:

Also the washer is for sure used with the axle nut. 

I am not referring to the washer under the axle nut that is labeled in red. I am talking about the white space near the end of the splines and the light blue bearing. It looks like a washer draw in section

[zKars]

The white washer in the picture is the noise reducing copper washer used in the 240's and later dropped on the larger/thicker splined 280 axles. None of the washers has any effect on the bearing position once tightened. 

[fairladyz432]

On 2/9/2018 at 8:01 PM, Zed Head said:

Could be that the axle and/or bearing removal procedure caused a problem.  Bent something maybe.  Did you use a slide hammer or a lever it out with a pry bar.? Maybe everything is right but you just have a small bent area.  A ding.

When looking at Blue's pictures study the blue part and the black "distance" piece.  The purpose of the distance piece is to hold the inner race at about the same distance as the outer race.  The chart in the FSM shows that they calculated a 0.001 to 0.002" preload offset.  That's small.  But there's a "huge" overlap of tolerances, so it almost doesn't matter.  It's weird, not even attributable to translation error, that the numbers don't just match, or they just say that one can't be more than xxx thousandths bigger/smaller than the other.  Basically they just want the inner race and the outer race to be on the same plane, within a few thousandths.

I also just noticed that they typo'ed a 6 for a 5. 

The way I removed the old bearing was by using a slide hammer to yank out the stub axle and nothing was forced so pretty unlikely I damaged something by using a proper tool. As for the inner I just tapped it out with a pipe till it popped out nothing out of the ordinary. I’ll be posting pictures soon as I kind of took a breather on that particular job so I can i get the things I can finish quickly first as I’m really close to getting the whole project finished. This bearing was the last thing I thought I’d be having issues with. Thanks for help I’ll update soon 

[Captain Obvious]

Good. I was wondering how you were doing. Looking forward to the pics.

[fairladyz432]

Just an update so might help some ppl out . I ended up taking it to a local shop and what they found was the seal was one of the issues when I installed it. It wasn’t sitting right and the actual inner bearing for some reason was not seated correctly. Not sure what I did wrong  , possibly didn’t punch the inner bearing all the way in before I put the seal on not sure. But all is good now, thanks for all the help. 

[Captain Obvious]

I was recently involved in the replacement of rear wheel bearings for two Z's:
https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/60026-friends-over-for-a-party-in-the-shop-yesterday/

One of the hubs had a similar issue to yours, and we (believe we) traced the problem to a bearing that was pressed in at an angle. It seemed that the bearing (mostly) eventually leveled out and went in, but not before it raised a huge burr inside the hub. And that burr prevented the bearing from seating in it's proper location.

Sounds like you may have had a similar issue. Here's a pic of what happens when you try to press a bearing in at an angle. You can see the semi-circular mark  on the far side where they gouged the cylinder wall that is supposed to locate the bearing. That raised bump was pushing the bearing to one side and not letting it seat square.

I used a hand file to dress the high spots back level: