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Coil-overs and then just slot the existing strut tower mounts if you want to save money. You can always add camber plates later.

Driving around with more than 2 degrees of front negative camber may not  be to your liking. It requires your full attention and both hands on the wheel.

 

I’m okay with it. Prev car ran -2, -3 for years. But was planning on what you suggested (camber maybe later). Thanks

 

 

 

12/70 2.6 block E88 heads Mallory DCOE40 3/2 Twice pipes Tokico 1, 3/4 in sways, ext oil cooler


^ Must be nice to have a portable laser cutter [emoji106]
Seriously. How did you cut those out so nicely. Will you do mine? :beer:

Ha! I used a drill and a rotary tool with steel cutting head to do that. Granted I started with raw metal them primed and painted afterwards..., but still done by hand.
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When I suggested slotting the tops I had in mind that one would weld in the plates once one had enough money to do so. You would need some form of camber bushings (front and rear) to make that work but those are cheap as opposed to a full suspension upgrade.

We ran -3 degrees using this method before welding in TTT plates and adjustable control arms. Granted this was a race car and overall looks were not important.

Those done by Mark are very, very pretty. Nice work.

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