L28 from 82 ZX teardown

[Captain Obvious]

I've only got one of my pistons here (the rest are out at GGRs), but the one I have here was assembled like the one you pictured above. And I'm confident that the one I have here was NOT one of the two bolts that came out during disassembly. (Point is, I have high confidence that the one I have here is the way it came from the factory.)

I don't know if my other five pistons are like the one I have here but I'll let you know when I get a chance.

[Zed Head]

The statement in the book about the bolts doesn't make sense.  Maybe he had a bad experiencing in the past and assumed it was the bolts.

Like any bolt and nut it just uses leverage to apply force to the cap.  Break it down to simple physics and you can't find a reason that mixing them up would matter.  I'd be more concerned with metal fatigue and stretching, from the first usage.  New bolts and nuts is probably just a good safeguard against failure.

 

[Av8ferg]

The engine is at the shop.
$50 hot tank and replace core plugs
$65 clean and inspect head and cam
$55 to shave head .040
$50 to hone cylinders and polish crank
10 day turnaround.
$220 out the door plus tax.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[siteunseen]

My guy asked about the rings I'd be using.  Different honing for steel versus chrome faced.  May be just him but I'd ask if I were you or research it out yourself.

[Av8ferg]

My guy asked about the rings I'd be using.  Different honing for steel versus chrome faced.  May be just him but I'd ask if I were you or research it out yourself.

I saw that in the book. Using OEM Nissan rings. Will do the research.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dave WM]

If head is warped was there any talk about straightening 1st or milling both sides. All having to do with keeping the cam journals in line when you go back to bolt it on.

[Dave WM]

If I ever do this (take a head to a shop) I am going to be very aware of warpage before it goes, and how well the cam spins before I remove the head and after I put it back on after machine work. Trying to avoid a CO like fail on the shaft.

[Av8ferg]

If head is warped was there any talk about straightening 1st or milling both sides. All having to do with keeping the cam journals in line when you go back to bolt it on.

I think this is part of the inspection the shop is going to do. There were no visible leaks on the head gasket and the yard said compression was consistent across all cylinders when they did its arrival assessment. Good points and I’ll ask whenI call them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Captain Obvious]

22 minutes ago, Dave WM said:

Trying to avoid a CO like fail

Word.

[Av8ferg]

While I wait for my block and head to be completed I’ve started to clean up my intake manifold and will refresh all connections and sensors. I had these parts for the fuel rail for about a year so I finally got to building it up. I wanted to streamline the fuel delivery layout away from the rusty looking trombone rail that comes stock. This aluminum rail was $40 on eBay. I had to drill and tap all the openings execpt the ends which just needed tapping with a tap 1/4 NPT. Got all the bibs and tap from Fastenal. Tap was almost as much at the rail at around $30. Brass Bids were very cheap too.
Whole deal cost me about $80 and about 70 mins of work.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[siteunseen]

That looks familiar. 

When you get a minute plug up the barbs for the injectors and hook a fuel pump up, check for leaks before you install it.  I had to find a better thread sealer as mine leaked a little.  Looks damn good!

 

Edited October 4, 2019 by siteunseen

[Av8ferg]

That looks familiar. 

I’m sure it does...I copied yours


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk