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On 9/26/2020 at 3:01 AM, Clay C said:

Late to this and I know you wanted all original but I took my diff in and out about 4 different times trying to get something to work. I had a lot of extra late model parts so I used a later transverse link mount, later mustache bar and a RT Mount...but I had to add a bracket to the RT Mount towards the back so the bushing wouldn’t fall directly on top of the front yoke of the diff. Welded a piece of channel on the RT Mount and moved the bushing back about 3 inches and all is well. I also had the late model drive shaft so I’m hoping that makes up the difference. 

Yeah, basically what you did is go for the 71.8 > spec and add the RT mount. 

I wanted to keep it as original as possible myself.


I did drove the 240Z yesterday and it works fine. No more clunk also. So if you early guys are looking for a solution to the NLA < 71.8 insulator mount here is the solution in this topic, you can modifiy the 71.8> to work.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 8 months later...

Okay guys. Im bumping this up. Another Datsun mystery to solve.

I picked up a euro/jdm spec 3.90 r180 ( together with the rare a type 5 speed )and the insulator was on it to. It's in good shape rubber is not cracked. 

It looks like the later type but there is a slight difference in the looks. ( See picture page 1 from the later mount ). The numbers might say it's a later type but it's not the same as the US version? Euro type mount?

 

 

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