dutchzcarguy Posted July 6, 2021 Share #193 Posted July 6, 2021 Clarkson: Farming?? How hard can it be? Hammond: DON'T say that !! 🤣 hahaha, at 12-15 years old i got my own vegetable garden, Also drove a tractor with more than one 4 wheeled cart and plowed strait lines and used a subsoiler and also a disk harrow, cultivator and cutter bar.. so i know how difficult it is to be a farmer.. 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/64416-240zbuiltbyme-1971-240z-hs-001063-project-georgia/?page=17#findComment-624591 Share on other sites More sharing options...
240ZBUILTBYME Posted July 15, 2021 Author Share #194 Posted July 15, 2021 Managed to remove the rear valance panel! Great Success! Used a combination of methods. These are the first spot welds I’ve ever removed so wanted to try them all. Used the rotabroach cutter style, the specialty drill bit type and the finger file sander. This is what my experience was with each: Rota broach/cutter type I used this specific set so not the el cheapo type off eBay. I found these difficult to use, they don’t work well on plug welds which I had a few of. they like to walk on uneven surfaces. But if your panel is flat and they are factory spot welds these do ok. You must use a center punch the specialty drill bit type this worked really well and I preferred them to the cutter style. Cut quickly and don’t mind uneven surfaces, don’t walk on you either. best on factory spot welds, they didn’t do well on the plug welds due to the small diameter. Must use a center punch too the finger file sander Bought this specific one from bunnings 60$, wanted a cheap one to try out to see if it would be worth the money buying a more expensive air one once I get my compressor. And it is great for grinding out spot welds! Catch is it will leave massive square holes in the top panel, but if you’re not reusing the top panel this is a great option. It’s very quick, I was using 40grit, easy to see when you have ground enough of the spot weld away, leaves the bottom panel in perfect condition. This one did the job but lacked a bit of power, occasionally stopped turning if you put too much pressure on but made up for it with its light weight. Had to remove the clips that hold the.... I’ve had a mental blank.... rear dress up panels that go around the tail lights. As I will be using the whole of the repair panel which will require a cut along the top edge where those clips sit. As expected it’s rather rusty in the box section behind, some rust has made it all the way through. comparison of stock valance vs Auto panel solutions repair panel. High quality product. RHS looks like it has a minor nudge. Some rudimentary measurements show it’s out by 3-4mm. Not too bad. I’m thinking a big hammer can’t fix First mock up of the panel. Need to buy more vice grips for convincing it into position. next up I plan to: - convince the panel into position then test fit the automobile rear bumper to make sure there are no dramas there - mark and cut top edge where new panel will end up - clean up the box section, carry out repairs on the rust holes - kbs rust blast then kbs rust seal the internal box section 4 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/64416-240zbuiltbyme-1971-240z-hs-001063-project-georgia/?page=17#findComment-625054 Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanTechZ Posted July 15, 2021 Share #195 Posted July 15, 2021 Looking good, great to see the progress you are making. Cheers, Mike 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/64416-240zbuiltbyme-1971-240z-hs-001063-project-georgia/?page=17#findComment-625056 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racer X Posted July 15, 2021 Share #196 Posted July 15, 2021 3 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said: Had to remove the clips that hold the.... I’ve had a mental blank.... rear dress up panels that go around the tail lights. As I will be using the whole of the repair panel which will require a cut along the top edge where those clips sit. I call it the taillight finisher. 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/64416-240zbuiltbyme-1971-240z-hs-001063-project-georgia/?page=17#findComment-625066 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted July 15, 2021 Share #197 Posted July 15, 2021 That sub frame piece is supposed to be pretty thick. i'm not sure it will move the way you want with a large hammer. I had to use frame clamps and a come-a-long. I like a 1/4" grinding bur in a die grinder for spot welds. Fast and easy and the top panel can be reused if need be. It does make a lot of metal splinters though... 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/64416-240zbuiltbyme-1971-240z-hs-001063-project-georgia/?page=17#findComment-625069 Share on other sites More sharing options...
240ZBUILTBYME Posted July 15, 2021 Author Share #198 Posted July 15, 2021 5 hours ago, Patcon said: That sub frame piece is supposed to be pretty thick. i'm not sure it will move the way you want with a large hammer. I had to use frame clamps and a come-a-long. I like a 1/4" grinding bur in a die grinder for spot welds. Fast and easy and the top panel can be reused if need be. It does make a lot of metal splinters though... I need to have another look and do more measurements but you’re probably right re the hammer. The rear sub frame looks in good shape though, have to try and work out where the 3-4mm went. you know I’ve always thought that a die grinder would work well but I’ve never seen anyone use them online. It’s on my list of tools to buy and methods to try Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/64416-240zbuiltbyme-1971-240z-hs-001063-project-georgia/?page=17#findComment-625092 Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted July 15, 2021 Share #199 Posted July 15, 2021 9 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said: I used this specific set so not the el cheapo type off eBay. I found these difficult to use, they don’t work well on plug welds which I had a few of. they like to walk on uneven surfaces. The trick to that kit is to pre drill the spot weld with a 1/8" drill then the cutter stays on track. 2 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/64416-240zbuiltbyme-1971-240z-hs-001063-project-georgia/?page=17#findComment-625095 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted July 15, 2021 Share #200 Posted July 15, 2021 I have a drawer full of die grinders, maybe 6 or 7. Cut off wheel, 2" roloks, 1" rolok, 3 or four different burrs, steel brush. They're so maneuverable and fast. Just noisy... 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/64416-240zbuiltbyme-1971-240z-hs-001063-project-georgia/?page=17#findComment-625100 Share on other sites More sharing options...
dutchzcarguy Posted July 16, 2021 Share #201 Posted July 16, 2021 23 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said: kbs rust blast then kbs rust seal the internal box section Use some paint that you can weld on between the sheets of metal , i don't know the name of it but i have some silvery paint that you can weld on, ask a good weldshop for it. (i could look for the name but you got there in australia another brand i think..) Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/64416-240zbuiltbyme-1971-240z-hs-001063-project-georgia/?page=17#findComment-625138 Share on other sites More sharing options...
240ZBUILTBYME Posted July 16, 2021 Author Share #202 Posted July 16, 2021 41 minutes ago, dutchzcarguy said: Use some paint that you can weld on between the sheets of metal , i don't know the name of it but i have some silvery paint that you can weld on, ask a good weldshop for it. (i could look for the name but you got there in australia another brand i think..) Yep, weld through primer. I’m using copper, upol brand. 1 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/64416-240zbuiltbyme-1971-240z-hs-001063-project-georgia/?page=17#findComment-625139 Share on other sites More sharing options...
240ZBUILTBYME Posted July 16, 2021 Author Share #203 Posted July 16, 2021 14 hours ago, grannyknot said: The trick to that kit is to pre drill the spot weld with a 1/8" drill then the cutter stays on track. Yep, the kit has a sprung drill bit in the center, I center punched then drilled a pilot hole with the sprung drill bit, once it was deep enough I put enough pressure to contact the actual cutter, still walked around. I just found the standard drill but type didn’t walk and then you don’t have to grind down any little circles after either. Just my experience with it. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/64416-240zbuiltbyme-1971-240z-hs-001063-project-georgia/?page=17#findComment-625140 Share on other sites More sharing options...
240ZBUILTBYME Posted July 16, 2021 Author Share #204 Posted July 16, 2021 13 hours ago, Patcon said: I have a drawer full of die grinders, maybe 6 or 7. Cut off wheel, 2" roloks, 1" rolok, 3 or four different burrs, steel brush. They're so maneuverable and fast. Just noisy... What shape burrs do you use for spot welds? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/64416-240zbuiltbyme-1971-240z-hs-001063-project-georgia/?page=17#findComment-625141 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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