1975 280z 2+2 will not start

[iscnetwork]

I am truly not sure if I ever started the car not in it or seat belt unhooked.  I only drove the car 3 months before its 2 yr. storage.  I was going to test this option tonight if I can get to the garage.  

I know one thing if it works you might hear the scream all the way to you there!

[Zed Head]

21 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

This is what I posted in the past on the seatbelt interlock relay: 

I knew that you knew about the interlock but typically don't read much about them, because I don't have one, and they seem like a real pain.  Kind of like the BCDD.  One of those things that you hope you never have to deal with.

Your jumper at the plug is the elegant solution.  I was imagining cutting or tapping wires to get around the switch  Didn't know there was a plug, but of course there is.

But.  If I read the diagram right and the anthony_c's posts, the interlock does not cut power to the coil.  Just the starter.  So that coil power problem will still be there, for iscnetwork.

[SteveJ]

6 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

I knew that you knew about the interlock but typically don't read much about them, because I don't have one, and they seem like a real pain.  Kind of like the BCDD.  One of those things that you hope you never have to deal with.

Your jumper at the plug is the elegant solution.  I was imagining cutting or tapping wires to get around the switch  Didn't know there was a plug, but of course there is.

But.  If I read the diagram right and the anthony_c's posts, the interlock does not cut power to the coil.  Just the starter.  So that coil power problem will still be there, for iscnetwork.

You are correct. That's why I was suggesting the ignition switch at the beginning of the thread.

Edited September 29, 2020 by SteveJ

[iscnetwork]

When to the garage, tested to see if I need to be all bucketed up.

My interlock is disabled.

In all of my tinkering the yellow wire going to solenoid has "juice".   But did not have any time to put everything back together and see what will be my next battle (pray NONE).

Thanks everyone.  I should have some 'garage time' tomorrow.

[iscnetwork]

I can foresee in my not-immediate future removing about 1/3 of the wiring in my car.

[iscnetwork]

On 9/28/2020 at 3:14 PM, zclocks said:

Here's a couple of pix of the coil/res. Let me know if you need more

Which color goes to the coil + terminal.  I really would not like to take my educated guess. Thanks.

Edited October 1, 2020 by iscnetwork

[zclocks]

look at photo I sent on Monday,  Green is +  , white /blk stripe  is (-)

[iscnetwork]

I really couldn't tell what color are actually connect to the 2 screws on the coil wire from the pictures.

thanks.

 

[iscnetwork]

I have spark thru the coil now.

NO gas coming from the fuel filter.

ideas experts?

 

 

[Zed Head]

 

 

Edited October 1, 2020 by Zed Head

[iscnetwork]

If you don't mind I need a couple definitions. 

START = all the way clockwise but not trying to kick in the solenoid / starter

The yellow or whitish wire is the one to disconnect?  (It goes from battery to inside of the larger wiring harness which goes into the dash board. )

[Guessing here, the only thing connected is the Accessories wire that runs directly from the + battery lead connector. ]
[the 2 red wires are what replaces the Yellow Solenoid wire with the aftermarket relay. If I ever find all my wiring, I plan to replace those with yellow & yellow / red.]
thanks.
 

Edited October 1, 2020 by iscnetwork
added more info

[Zed Head]

Yours is red now.  The one that pulls off by hand, no wrenches needed.  With it disconnected the starter solenoid will not energize, only the fuel pump, and CSV, etc.  The engine won't spin so you'll hear the pump.  It's a good way to run the pump and flush out the system with fresh fuel, if you're worried about that.  You can also use it to check your fuel pressure, without engine vacuum.

Edited October 1, 2020 by Zed Head