AK260 Posted October 1, 2020 Share #37 Posted October 1, 2020 Ak260, what was your grease seal issue? It hadn’t gone home all the way - There must have been only 0.5 - 1mm in it. Look at the friction it caused .... Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/64489-rear-wheel-bearing-related/?page=4#findComment-606938 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jarvo2 Posted October 1, 2020 Share #38 Posted October 1, 2020 It hadn’t gone home all the way - There must have been only 0.5 - 1mm in it. Look at the friction it caused .... I had the same thing on the first side I did. Gotta get that seal pounded all the way in (gently!)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/64489-rear-wheel-bearing-related/?page=4#findComment-606951 Share on other sites More sharing options...
adivin Posted October 1, 2020 Author Share #39 Posted October 1, 2020 Now I suspect the seal could have contributed to part of my problem. How do you know when the seal is in all the way? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/64489-rear-wheel-bearing-related/?page=4#findComment-606955 Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK260 Posted October 1, 2020 Share #40 Posted October 1, 2020 Now I suspect the seal could have contributed to part of my problem. How do you know when the seal is in all the way?What a great question! It stops moving when you thwack a big socket on the back of it ;)If you are paranoid about it, you can always trim the first 1-2 mm off the grease seal with a sharp blade as it is very soft and as far as I could see wasn’t doing a great deal! I did this on the second side I did. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/64489-rear-wheel-bearing-related/?page=4#findComment-606956 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted October 1, 2020 Share #41 Posted October 1, 2020 (edited) They could have written a procedure that made much more sense. If you look at the drawing you can see that the inner race is actually used to "press" in the outer race by applying force through the balls. That's supposed to be bad (potential for "brinelling") but that's how they do it. You can also see that any speck of metal shaving or grime that stops the outer race from fully seating will screw up the relationship between the inner and outer races. The whole point of the torqueing exercise is to get the two races on the same plane so that the balls will be centered in each race. The preload and/or end play measurements are just confirmation that that has happened. So, the best procedure, after you get the seal pounded all the way in, would seem to be to make sure the outer race seat area is perfectly clean and burr-free, then torque the nut to its minimum value. Then take your two measurements and either keep torqueing if they're not right, or stop if they are right, even at the minimum torque value. The whole point of increasing the torque beyond the minimum is to compress the distance piece, drawing the inner races together. Once the races are aligned, the job is done, except for the peening, if you're in the peening camp. I just felt compelled to write that, while it was clear in my head... Edited October 1, 2020 by Zed Head right was wrong it should have been write 2 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/64489-rear-wheel-bearing-related/?page=4#findComment-606991 Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK260 Posted October 1, 2020 Share #42 Posted October 1, 2020 Spot on Zedhead [emoji1317][emoji106][emoji106] I was hyper paranoid about clean surfaces where the outer races went home and you just explained it perfectly!! 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/64489-rear-wheel-bearing-related/?page=4#findComment-606993 Share on other sites More sharing options...
adivin Posted October 2, 2020 Author Share #43 Posted October 2, 2020 (edited) Everything is back together and feels good. As far as the grease catch, I straightened the lip and made sure the everything is pressed in enough to where the lip of the grease catch is in the groove on the housing. At first it was binding and I noticed it need to go in just a bit more. Also, I noticed that as soon you put the companion flange on it makes contact with the inside of the grease seal and will cause some friction. The axle went from spinning really easily, but when I inserted the companion flange I did notice some friction even before the putting the lock nut on. I have the copper washer so I torqued it to 100 ft lbs. The pre-load using a fish scale is still under 2 lbs. Now for the other side...god I hope that spindle pin comes out easy! Edited October 2, 2020 by adivin 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/64489-rear-wheel-bearing-related/?page=4#findComment-607066 Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK260 Posted October 2, 2020 Share #44 Posted October 2, 2020 Well done chap! That must be very satisfying.Good luck with spindle pin - I’ve read they are a breeze [emoji2957][emoji13] 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/64489-rear-wheel-bearing-related/?page=4#findComment-607069 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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