Mark Maras Posted March 1, 2021 Share #13 Posted March 1, 2021 @siteunseen Cliff help me out here. I've never used a Float Sync but as I recall, you have. Is the 9/16" above the metal base on the Float Sync the proper height? @Jughead Let's be sure the fuel levels are at the proper height and we'll work on the mixture then. Meanwhile, are you sure the nozzles are up all the way and not being held down by the choke cables or are bound up due to twisted linkage? I'm trying to eliminate a few things but my gut feeling is you may be trying to compensate for very worn, leaking throttle shafts. @Captain Obvious I believe you had a method to reduce or eliminate the leaky throttle shafts. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/64521-kudos-to-ztherapy/?page=2#findComment-616873 Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted March 1, 2021 Share #14 Posted March 1, 2021 Yes, the top of the rectangle is 23mm down from the underside of the lid. This is a picture I've always used for reference. I can't remember who to credit for it but Jarvo or Zkars always pop up in my head. I use the clear tubing too just like the photo. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/64521-kudos-to-ztherapy/?page=2#findComment-616876 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jughead Posted March 2, 2021 Share #15 Posted March 2, 2021 So, I removed the dash pots and pistons. Turns out the the rear jet nozzle is stuck (again). I used the nozzles from the Z-Therapy rebuild kit. What's the best way to loosen it up and keep it loose? Can/should you oil them? I seem to remember Steve using oil in the video. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/64521-kudos-to-ztherapy/?page=2#findComment-616880 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Maras Posted March 2, 2021 Share #16 Posted March 2, 2021 A little oil or lithium grease can be used on them. A frequent cause of nozzle binding is the small flat-bar linkage piece that pulls the nozzle down and pushes it up. The problem lies in the ends that attach with screws. The ends of the linkage piece have to be exactly parallel to their mating surfaces. I slight twist with two pliers is enough to realign it. Unfortunately I had to remove the carb to check the linkage alignment. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/64521-kudos-to-ztherapy/?page=2#findComment-616883 Share on other sites More sharing options...
7tooZ Posted March 2, 2021 Author Share #17 Posted March 2, 2021 19 hours ago, Jughead said: What exactly is the Starter fluid test? What's the procedure and how do you do it, and how do you interpret results? I'm having a helluva time tuning my carbs. I sprayed starter fluid on throttle shaft bushings today and it affected idle negatively. I did both carbs individually and got similar results. What does this indicated? THANKS!! In my case my car was running fine at higher RPM (3000+) but would backfire (POP) on compression, That is because it was leaning out off throttle. At idle my car reacted just as yours did when starting fluid was sprayed near the rear carb butter fly shaft. If i plugged the hole (pressed my finger over it) for the shaft the idle smoothed out immediately. Once I remove the carb i could see that the silver cap was missing. Bruce at Z therapy told me that I probably had a backfire that blew out the seal. So off to Ztheray they went. Came back beautiful, adjusted and all I did was bolt them on. Problem solved. No backfires and no lean out at low RPM. Would you like a photo of where the shaft cover is. I am not sure is the OEM carbs have the cap. Ztherapy opens up where the shaft sits so they can install roller bearings and seals. Stock carbs have brass (?) bushings. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/64521-kudos-to-ztherapy/?page=2#findComment-616894 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jughead Posted March 2, 2021 Share #18 Posted March 2, 2021 Yes please! I am actually on the Z-Therapy waiting list, but am trying to eliminate all possibilities first. I'd hate to put 2 beautiful new carbs on just to have the same issue! Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/64521-kudos-to-ztherapy/?page=2#findComment-616896 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jughead Posted March 2, 2021 Share #19 Posted March 2, 2021 Nice car, BTW! Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/64521-kudos-to-ztherapy/?page=2#findComment-616898 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Obvious Posted March 2, 2021 Share #20 Posted March 2, 2021 16 hours ago, Mark Maras said: @Captain Obvious I believe you had a method to reduce or eliminate the leaky throttle shafts. I put O-rings on the shafts. I'm sure it's not as good as installing completely new unworn shafts, but it's something I can do here with the machines I have. 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/64521-kudos-to-ztherapy/?page=2#findComment-616919 Share on other sites More sharing options...
7tooZ Posted March 2, 2021 Author Share #21 Posted March 2, 2021 @Jughead Makes me wonder if you could cover your with some strong tape to seal it and see if the helps? 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/64521-kudos-to-ztherapy/?page=2#findComment-616933 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jughead Posted March 2, 2021 Share #22 Posted March 2, 2021 Mine don't have the caps. (See pics.) Don't know if they ever did. (Anybody know?) Anyway, It's the inner bushing that seem to react to starter fluid more than the outside ones... Thoughts? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/64521-kudos-to-ztherapy/?page=2#findComment-616956 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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