Ruined Wheel Hub?

[Mark Maras]

The extra $17.00 that O'Reilly charges probably goes towards all that advertising that we wish would go away.Timken bearings have always been my first choice.

[Zed Head]

Maybe ZCD got a "deal" on a batch of wheel bearings.  Counterfeit wheel bearings is a big problem, apparently.  Regardless, they don't fit.  Racer X's suggestion to take a measurement is a good one.  The proper dimensions are in the Timken link.

I looked for an article on counterfeit bearings and found a lot more than I thought I would.  Here's a few, below.  Besides counterfeits, off-spec. parts can go out the back door for resale.

Overall, Tweeds should let ZCD know that the bearings didn't fit the spindle.  He would save ZCD bad press and problems in the future and he might (should) get a refund or proper replacement parts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2wg3EXqlKM

https://www.machinedesign.com/mechanical-motion-systems/article/21835371/the-dangers-of-fake-bearings

https://www.nskamericas.com/en/company/counterfeiting.html

[Tweeds]

1 hour ago, Zed Head said:

Counterfeit wheel bearings is a big problem, apparently. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2wg3EXqlKM

https://www.machinedesign.com/mechanical-motion-systems/article/21835371/the-dangers-of-fake-bearings

https://www.nskamericas.com/en/company/counterfeiting.html

That counterfeit bearings is an actual problem, and relatively big problem at that, is surprising to me. Bearings aren't too expensive all things considered, so it seems odd people would make fakes. Fake Rolex's, Mont Blanc pens, and luxurious handbags make sense, but wheel bearings? Odd. Though if there's money to be made, somebody will do it. One thing I'll point out is that the 

I'll shoot zcardepot an email.

[Tweeds]

Went to the auto parts store to pick up different bearings - same problem as before. This time I got National's. Must be my spindle, not the bearings. I'll go ahead and do what some of you guys recommended earlier - lightly sanding down the spindle enough to fit the bearing. What I find odd is that both spindles are too large for the new bearings, yet the original bearings fit just fine. I'm curious as to what's gone awry here, and if anyone else has run into this issue. If one spindle was off that'd be understandable, or if one brand of bearing was a bad fit. I wonder if the original bearings have been 'worn in'. Beats me.

[Zed Head]

3 minutes ago, Tweeds said:

 What I find odd is that both spindles are too large for the new bearings, yet the original bearings fit just fine. I'm curious as to what's gone awry here, and if anyone else has run into this issue. If one spindle was off that'd be understandable, or if one brand of bearing was a bad fit. I wonder if the original bearings have been 'worn in'. Beats me.

You can "hone" the inside of the bearing race also.  Good that you figured it out.  SPC wasn't huge in the 70's.  Nissan either made out of spec parts or maybe the spec was different then.  Read up on Six Sigma if you want to be bored about how to make stuff.

 

[Racer X]

2 hours ago, Tweeds said:

Went to the auto parts store to pick up different bearings - same problem as before. This time I got National's. Must be my spindle, not the bearings. I'll go ahead and do what some of you guys recommended earlier - lightly sanding down the spindle enough to fit the bearing. What I find odd is that both spindles are too large for the new bearings, yet the original bearings fit just fine. I'm curious as to what's gone awry here, and if anyone else has run into this issue. If one spindle was off that'd be understandable, or if one brand of bearing was a bad fit. I wonder if the original bearings have been 'worn in'. Beats me.

There should be no wear in that area. Once the hub is assembled, the bearing preload set, and locked, that part of the bearing should not move.

It does seem odd that several different bearings aren't fitting. If you have a caliper measure the bearings and compare the size differences.

 

Get some emery cloth (also called crocus cloth, any good auto supply store should carry it). It comes in a roll, but some stores will sell it by the foot. I get the roll and beat inflation a bit. Tear off a strip about 12 to 14 inches long and sand briskly, on a clean and dry surface, moving around so that you sand all the way around. Wipe it off with some solvent on a rag, followed with a dry rag, and inspect it visually with a bright light, and feel it. It should be smooth as a baby's butt., and shiny.

Before sliding the bearing on to check the fit, wipe it clean with solvent on a rag, followed by a wipe with a clean dry rag.

Neatness counts here, the tolerances are close and anything that shouldn't be there may keep things from fitting together, and after all, wheel bearings are very important. Have a clean work area, lay freshly cleaned bearings, nuts, washers, seals, etc. on a clean dry shop towel. A roll of those blue things they sell at the chain parts places are suitable, and disposable so your wife won't shoot you for washing the cloth variety out in her washing machine.

 

Also, I looked at the FSM procedure for setting the bearing preload.

 

For reference, here it is (I'm skipping the first two steps):

• Tighten the wheel bearing locknut to 18 to 22 ft lbs.

• Rotate wheel hub a few turns in both directions to seat wheel correctly. Then, retighten spindle nut to the above torque. (this means to losen and then reset the nut torque)

• Loosen the wheel bearing lock nut 60 degrees. Install adjusting cap and align groove of nut with hole in spindle. If grove does not align with hole, relocate adjusting cap. If hole and groove still do not come into alignment, loosen wheel bearing lock nut as much as 15 degrees more.

• Again, spin wheel hub several times in both directions to see if it rotates freely. Then measure bearing preload as follows: (the diagram shows the mechanic using a small scale to pull and check the rotating force required to begin rotating the hub) The starting torque is 3.5 to 7.4 inch pounds.

 

Having done a zillion wheel bearings I have developed a feel for the task, so I don't bother with a torque wrench or a scale. I can say that if I did, I would stick to the lower side of the range for the nut tightening. The FSM stresses that care be taken to not overtighten the bearings, and I think even 18 ft lbs is too tight. I also spin the hub as I snug the nut down, something the FSM fails to require.

When you finally get this resolved, choose the correct length cotter key, so the ends can be neatly bent tightly around the spindle and not rub on the dust cap. And when installing the dust cap, don't bash on it with a hammer, tap it in gently on the lip around the edges with a flat tip screwdriver (about 5/16" wide). it should slide in snugly, but easily. If you bend the dome it will rub against the spindle.

 

Good luck, this really sounds like a trying endeavor for you. I hope this information helps you get your Z back on the road!

 

Edited December 5, 2020 by Racer X

[Tweeds]

Victory! With about 30 mins to an hour of careful sanding, testing the fit of the bearing on the spindle and repeating until it was perfect, I finally got everything to seat properly. 

1 hour ago, Racer X said:

For reference, here it is (I'm skipping the first two steps):

• Tighten the wheel bearing locknut to 18 to 22 ft lbs.

• Rotate wheel hub a few turns in both directions to seat wheel correctly. Then, retighten spindle nut to the above torque. (this means to losen and then reset the nut torque)

• Loosen the wheel bearing lock nut 60 degrees. Install adjusting cap and align groove of nut with hole in spindle. If grove does not align with hole, relocate adjusting cap. If hole and groove still do not come into alignment, loosen wheel bearing lock nut as much as 15 degrees more.

• Again, spin wheel hub several times in both directions to see if it rotates freely. Then measure bearing preload as follows: (the diagram shows the mechanic using a small scale to pull and check the rotating force required to begin rotating the hub) The starting torque is 3.5 to 7.4 inch pounds.

 

Having done a zillion wheel bearings I have developed a feel for the task, so I don't bother with a torque wrench or a scale. I can say that if I did, I would stick to the lower side of the range for the nut tightening. The FSM stresses that care be taken to not overtighten the bearings, and I think even 18 ft lbs is too tight. I also spin the hub as I snug the nut down, something the FSM fails to require.

Good luck, this really sounds like a trying endeavor for you. I hope this information helps you get your Z back on the road!

 

I strayed away from the FSM a little, using a socket wrench rather than a torque wrench. Tightened the nut while rotating the hub until it became both hard to tighten the nut and rotate the hub. I then gave one more strong (but not too strong) go on the nut and then backed off the nut until the hub rotated freely, finally tightening and loosening the nut to get it as close as possible to the point where the hub starts to drag a bit, for lack of a better word, but still allowing smooth rotation.

It has been a trying endeavor, yes. I'd never done something like this before, and, going into it, it seemed like it'd be a relatively straight forward affair. I kept getting thrown curveballs though, and what I figured would be a couple days work turned into about two weeks. I'm not complaining though, it was a good learning experience, and now I'll be that much more proud if my car doesn't fall apart next time I take it out. All I'm really complaining about is the fact I haven't driven my z in two weeks 😢 

Thanks everybody for your invaluable know how! Cheers!

[Racer X]

25 minutes ago, Tweeds said:

Victory! With about 30 mins to an hour of careful sanding, testing the fit of the bearing on the spindle and repeating until it was perfect, I finally got everything to seat properly. 

I strayed away from the FSM a little, using a socket wrench rather than a torque wrench. Tightened the nut while rotating the hub until it became both hard to tighten the nut and rotate the hub. I then gave one more strong (but not too strong) go on the nut and then backed off the nut until the hub rotated freely, finally tightening and loosening the nut to get it as close as possible to the point where the hub starts to drag a bit, for lack of a better word, but still allowing smooth rotation.

It has been a trying endeavor, yes. I'd never done something like this before, and, going into it, it seemed like it'd be a relatively straight forward affair. I kept getting thrown curveballs though, and what I figured would be a couple days work turned into about two weeks. I'm not complaining though, it was a good learning experience, and now I'll be that much more proud if my car doesn't fall apart next time I take it out. All I'm really complaining about is the fact I haven't driven my z in two weeks 😢 

Thanks everybody for your invaluable know how! Cheers!

Good to see it is coming together.

I gotta ask.

Are the vice grips pinching the brake hose?

[Tweeds]

49 minutes ago, Racer X said:

Good to see it is coming together.

I gotta ask.

Are the vice grips pinching the brake hose?

Yes they are! I'm going to replace the hoses once the calipers are back on, do a flush and all that but I needed to keep brake fluid from leaking everywhere and completely draining the master cylinder while doing everything else. Vice grips did a damn good job of it.

[Racer X]

3 minutes ago, Tweeds said:

Yes they are! I'm going to replace the hoses once the calipers are back on, do a flush and all that but I needed to keep brake fluid from leaking everywhere and completely draining the master cylinder while doing everything else. Vice grips did a damn good job of it.

You're gonna lose most of the remaining fluid changing out the hoses, and having fresh fluid in the entire system can't hurt. Put a pan under them and let gravity empty it out for you.

Less mess later when you remove the hoses.