Newb ? on removing all smog on '72 10/71 240z Series 2

[dogma420]

Hey all, thanks for reading.

I have a 100% stock 10/71 '72 240z, only mod on motor right now is the smog belt is off. (and froze subsequently since).

I see everyone with all smog stuff off, and was wondering what books if any are recommended for making a Z real clean lookin the carb area, with all the smog items removed. I already have no water going through the manifold.

Any and all recommendations would be appreciated.

Heres some rambling:

1. All the stuff that goes to the smog pump, can all of that just be removed, and the holes in the manifold, etc. be capped? I am going from the stock orange air filter housing to 2 k&n style filters, with no coolant going through the manifold. It doesn't matter to me if I keep this manifold...It has a 88 head on it, can I go with the non water cooled manifolds from earlier Zs or are they just for the E31?

I'm assuming a small breather filter will be put on the head breather hole that would normally run into the air filter housing, and the line for the pcv valve stays intack.

2. My distributor is worn out (30+ years, the shaft is loose like an old whore)....I'm definitely thinking non points...thinking a fully electronic w/out mech advance would be the way to go.....has anyone tried just putting a points style dist back in, and using the cheapo looking point conversion kit like MSA sells, that puts a infrared type doohickie in there to eliminate the points? Its so cheap, I wonder if it really works worth a darn....

3. Lastly, I get some strong gas smell from the gas inlet right after filling up, so I'm replacing the entire inlet hose on the gas tank, taking out the tank and cleaning up. In this situation, should all the evap lines be replaced or is it possible to just cap all that stuff? I'd rather do that.

Any info, much appreciated....sorry for cross posting diff questions but rambling is a disease

-Dawg

dogma420@hotmail.com

[owenk]

The vapors during fill up may be coming from a broken ~3/4" dia coupling from the filler neck to a vent hose. This was the case on my 71.

Leave the vapor recovery lines in place, they are not robbing horsepower and they make the air we all breath a little cleaner.

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by dogma420

2. My distributor is worn out (30+ years, the shaft is loose like an old whore)....I'm definitely thinking non points...thinking a fully electronic w/out mech advance would be the way to go.....has anyone tried just putting a points style dist back in, and using the cheapo looking point conversion kit like MSA sells, that puts a infrared type doohickie in there to eliminate the points? Its so cheap, I wonder if it really works worth a darn....

I don't know about the unit that MSA sells unless you are talking about the Crane XR700, (which I will NEVER use again!), but I can tell you from personal experience that the Pertronix Ignitor system (see the Ignitor HERE) does work, and works GREAT.

Originally posted by dogma420

3. Lastly, I get some strong gas smell from the gas inlet right after filling up, so I'm replacing the entire inlet hose on the gas tank, taking out the tank and cleaning up. In this situation, should all the evap lines be replaced or is it possible to just cap all that stuff? I'd rather do that.

owenk's suggestion is correct. Likely the plastic fitting from the filler tube to the vent system is cracked, AND / OR the vent hoses themselves are cracked. If you are removing the gas tank and doing repairs, check out the plastic fitting and replace it if necessary, and also replace the vent hoses. DO NOT ELIMINATE THEM. Without the vent hoses your gas tank will not fill completely. You'll get about an 11 to 12 gallon fill instead of 15.9 gallons. Air will be trapped in the tank due to the shape of the tank. You can replace all but one of the the vent hoses with generic "FUEL / OIL" (the hose MUST be rated for "FUEL / OIL" DO NOT use heater hose!) hoses. The one with the 180 bend in it should be replaced with an OEM hose. Hose without the pre-formed bend will "kink" in that location and thus will not allow air to vent.

[dogma420]

Thanks a lot for the answers guys, ok, so the points replacement from Pertronix sounds good.

If I'm just going to get a replacement stock distributor, should I get the European one (that MSA sells)? It is slightly advanced.

Also, after the distributor, what does everyone suggest for the best coil combo? I'm using NGK stock spark plugs / high pro wires from MSA.

Thanks for all your suggestions!!!!

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by dogma420

If I'm just going to get a replacement stock distributor, should I get the European one (that MSA sells)? It is slightly advanced.

Also, after the distributor, what does everyone suggest for the best coil combo? I'm using NGK stock spark plugs / high pro wires from MSA.

Thanks for all your suggestions!!!!

I don't see why the Pertronix wouldn't work with the European Dist. Never tried it myself, but it should work.

The Pertronix will work with any coil. But depending on which coil you get, you may or may not be able eliminate the ballast resistor. For street applications, I feel that it is best to retain the ballast resistor. I've been very happy with the Pertronix "Flame Thrower" coil that I bought with their Ignitor ignition.

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by chrishorne1967

I just removed all the smog stuff from my 73,I used 1/4 allen headed steel pipe plugs for the exhaust where the air injection was,looks really good plus they should rust in sealing it quite nicely,............

What size and thread pitch were the plugs that you used to seal up the EGR tubes on the exhaust manifold?

Do you have any pictures of the block off plate and bracket that you made?

I might want to do that on my car this summer.

Thanks, Carl