Tensioner sounds

[Racer X]

1 hour ago, Reptoid Overlords said:

Oliver finally updated his website haha.  Man that place is like Disneyland for Z enthusiasts.  It is truly unbelievable the the stuff he has out there.  He moved from "downtown" Snohomish out into the country a few miles.  I've gotten some things from him, good guy, and very knowledgeable.

I first met him when his shop was on Ballinger Way in King County. I saw him once after he moved to Clearview on Highway 9, and that was about 28 years ago.

[foosman]

Another option on harmonic balancer rebuilds - I haven't used them personally, but heard good things from others:

http://hbrepair.com/

[Zup]

17 hours ago, heyitsrama said:

 

I’ll double check for the lash pad, I also found that the harmonic balancer separated. Can these be rebuilt? Or better off getting a new one?

I've ordered a few of these. Yep---they are real. You might want to snag one while they are available. A lot cheaper than a rebuild, IMO.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Datsun-70-72-240Z-Crankshaft-Pulley/113864791592?hash=item1a82ded628:g:kucAAOSwEC5dYZRA

They are drilled for balance just like the originals and have tapped holes for the additional pulley groove if you need it for A/C.

[heyitsrama]

Lashpads look OK, I’ll remove the oil spray bar today and get it soaked. Thank for the ideas, should have tube in the back can use. 

@Racer X wow that’s not bad at all, nice of them to get the OEM paint colour down on it too.

@foosman I emailed Dale yesterday, he said it’s $140 + shipping for it to be rebuilt. Not too bad IMO.

@Zup I ordered one of those thanks for the heads up, might just run it until I need the other one rebuilt. Why are there 2 grooves if this is not for AC? Is one for the smog pump? Can you not run the AC belt off the spare groove, would the ratio of the size between the crank pulley and the AC pulley be off? 

Edited January 2, 2021 by heyitsrama

[heyitsrama]

Replacement crank pully is here, the inside where it fits onto the crank looks like it could be cleaned up a bit, shall probably a scotchbride pad to it to just get it shiny. Is there anything else I should do to prep the balancer for install? Antisieze? Threadlocker ?

These balancers are not bad @Zup not sure about `NOS` they seem like they are new used. 

 

[Racer X]

43 minutes ago, heyitsrama said:

Replacement crank pully is here, the inside where it fits onto the crank looks like it could be cleaned up a bit, shall probably a scotchbride pad to it to just get it shiny. Is there anything else I should do to prep the balancer for install? Antisieze? Threadlocker ?

These balancers are not bad @Zup not sure about `NOS` they seem like they are new used. 

 

You could use scotchbrite, or a strip of fine emery cloth to polish it up. Do the inside too.

Be sure there aren't any burrs, don't overlook the keyway.

Clean it with a mild detergent, and install. I like to put a thin film of antisieze on the bore, and in the keyway (use a q-tip). A little goes a long way, just be sure it is even.

[Racer X]

53 minutes ago, heyitsrama said:

 

These balancers are not bad @Zup not sure about `NOS` they seem like they are new used. 

 

 

If they were used, the pulley v-grooves would show wear from the belts. Easy to check, a 6" steel scale laid against the bevel, shine a flashlight at the backside. As the grooves wear, the surface will become concave.

I think they just haven't been stored in a dry environment.

 

Edited January 6, 2021 by Racer X

[Zed Head]

Do the flat mating surface on the backside also.  That's the part that clamps it to the crankshaft.  And be careful with the key in the keyway, I've read stories of them getting cokced and/or pushed out of place during installation.

Many people use red loctite, just to the be extra safe.  But Nissan doesn't call for any threadlocker.  I'd just use blue.  Nissan instructions make it "no big deal".

Racer X and Zup know more, I'm just talking about the basics and things I've read.

p.s. I would avoid getting any antiseize on the mating surface at the back.  The bolt clamps that surface to the crankshaft and making it slippery will put extra load on the key, which is supposed to be mainly for locating, as most keys are.  You want that friction.

p.s. 2 check that the hub length is the same as the old one and make sure the bolt doesn't bottom out before clamping.  More stuff I've read. Problems people have had...

Edited January 6, 2021 by Zed Head

[Racer X]

On 1/1/2021 at 4:42 PM, heyitsrama said:

@Mark MarasMarsMarMarasMarasM

 

on a side note:
I was thinking of inspecting the fan clutch while I have everything apart, it seems to resist being spun by hand when it’s on the car. I thought it was supposed to free spin a bit more... 

the car can take several minutes to warm up, maybe it’s cooling too much, seems to never go past 1/2 on the gauge, sometimes never makes it there either. 

The thing to look for on a fan clutch is the condition of the bearing. When is fails, the hub gets loose, then the silicone fluid leaks out. 

If the car isn't fully warming up, the likely suspect is the thermostat.

 Check the cooling system temperature with a non contact pyrometer. 

Like this:

 

 

 

 

[7tooZ]

On 1/1/2021 at 8:30 PM, Racer X said:

I first met him when his shop was on Ballinger Way in King County. I saw him once after he moved to Clearview on Highway 9, and that was about 28 years ago.

He has moved out of the shop in clear view. Pops up on Craigslist once in a while. 

[Racer X]

9 minutes ago, 7tooZ said:

He has moved out of the shop in clear view. Pops up on Craigslist once in a while. 

I wonder where all those Z cars and parts went? It looked like he had 75 to 100 cars there at one time.

[Zed Head]

On 1/1/2021 at 6:45 PM, Reptoid Overlords said:

Oliver finally updated his website haha.  

https://zspecialties.com/

https://zspecialties.com/product/crank_pulley_rebuilt_70-73/