Dens240 Posted November 13, 2021 Share #1 Posted November 13, 2021 I am struggling to get sufficient brake pressure at the front calipers on a 72 240Z. I have a rebuilt booster, new master cylinder, new (rebuilt) calipers at both wheels. The rear drum brakes work. After much work and brake bleeding, I have fluid at both front calipers. However, when the brake pedal is pressed, the cylinder pistons don't move at all. I would suspect that I have a leak somewhere that doesn't allow sufficient pressure to engage the brakes but I don't see any fluid leaking anywhere in the system. Any ideas/thoughts welcome. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/66038-front-brakes-dont-work-need-help/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveJ Posted November 13, 2021 Share #2 Posted November 13, 2021 Post photos of the front calipers showing the bleed screws. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/66038-front-brakes-dont-work-need-help/#findComment-631515 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dens240 Posted November 13, 2021 Author Share #3 Posted November 13, 2021 Photos of each caliper below: Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/66038-front-brakes-dont-work-need-help/#findComment-631516 Share on other sites More sharing options...
zKars Posted November 13, 2021 Share #4 Posted November 13, 2021 Did you check the clearance between the end of the brake rod sticking out of the booster and the inside of the master where it will touch? I’m guessing there is way too big of a gap. Should be 1/32 or 1/16 max. Also check and make sure the reaction disk is in place. 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/66038-front-brakes-dont-work-need-help/#findComment-631518 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dens240 Posted November 13, 2021 Author Share #5 Posted November 13, 2021 I did check the length of the booster rod vs the depth to the piston. I adjusted the booster rod length so that they are within a few 1/10s of an inch of each other. I haven't checked the reaction disk in the booster. I assume that I need to open the booster to check that? When the MC is removed and I depress the brake pedal, the booster rod extends, although I haven't attempted to measure the force. The booster was rebuilt by Prior Brake Products in Mesquite, TX. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/66038-front-brakes-dont-work-need-help/#findComment-631519 Share on other sites More sharing options...
zKars Posted November 14, 2021 Share #6 Posted November 14, 2021 Assuming you mean a few hundredths…. 0.0625 is a 1/16. The reaction disks just keep biting people in the a z z as when you pull the rod forward or out to adjust the tip length, the disk often follows and drops down into the body of the booster, then you put the rod back in and don’t notice the extra 1/4”. Other than that, make sure you bleed the master as well 1 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/66038-front-brakes-dont-work-need-help/#findComment-631520 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted November 14, 2021 Share #7 Posted November 14, 2021 50 minutes ago, Dens240 said: However, when the brake pedal is pressed, the cylinder pistons don't move at all. Does the pedal go to the floor or does it stay high and firm? If it goes to the floor can it be pumped up? The pistons don't move far at all under normal operation Are you saying the the wheels still turn with the pedal down? Not really clear... Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/66038-front-brakes-dont-work-need-help/#findComment-631521 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dens240 Posted November 14, 2021 Author Share #8 Posted November 14, 2021 Yes - the wheels still turn with the pedal down. I can get the pedal to go pretty much to the floor. I sometimes seems like it will pump up but doesn't always stay "pumped" Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/66038-front-brakes-dont-work-need-help/#findComment-631522 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dens240 Posted November 14, 2021 Author Share #9 Posted November 14, 2021 Another data point - When I push the brake pedal to the floor, the brake pressure differential warning light comes on. Also, sometimes there is an audible "poof" that allows the pedal to go lower. Not sure if that's a pressure relief of some sort in the booster? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/66038-front-brakes-dont-work-need-help/#findComment-631523 Share on other sites More sharing options...
zKars Posted November 14, 2021 Share #10 Posted November 14, 2021 If you hear air sounds from the booster, but the booster is just rebuilt, right? then not likely the diaphragm is leaking, then maybe the check valve in the line to the booster is leaking. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/66038-front-brakes-dont-work-need-help/#findComment-631524 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dens240 Posted November 14, 2021 Author Share #11 Posted November 14, 2021 I'll look at the check valve Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/66038-front-brakes-dont-work-need-help/#findComment-631525 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dens240 Posted November 14, 2021 Author Share #12 Posted November 14, 2021 FYI - The check valve is also new Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/66038-front-brakes-dont-work-need-help/#findComment-631526 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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