Jughead Posted August 29, 2022 Share #1 Posted August 29, 2022 Hi All,= What is the procedure for bench testing horns out of the car? It's a '72 240Z. I bought 2 supposedly working, rebuilt horns from ebay and want to test them prior to installing. I tested both horns individually by connecting their spade connectors to 12.7 volts and grounding the mounting brackets. No sound on either. The connections are all very clean (by me) and I I measure 12.7 volts passing between the spade connectors and the grounds. What am I missing? Thanks! Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/67793-bench-testing-horns-1972-240z/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveJ Posted August 29, 2022 Share #2 Posted August 29, 2022 I used a clip lead and remote starter. https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3630-Remote-Starter-Switch/dp/B000EVU8MK Clip one end of the clip lead to the negative of the battery and the other to the body of the horn. Clip one end of the remote starter to the positive of the battery and the other end to the terminal on the horn. I suggest holding the horn so the positive terminal cannot touch the body of the car and short. Press the button on the remote starter. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/67793-bench-testing-horns-1972-240z/#findComment-644649 Share on other sites More sharing options...
zKars Posted August 30, 2022 Share #3 Posted August 30, 2022 I’ve found pretty much the same issue with about a dozen non-working horns now, and it relates to corrosion in the power connection terminal where it passes through the body of the horn. You can clean both sides of it thoroughly inside and out, even by sand blasting, and it will look like a million bucks but will not pass current. The corrosion between the touching mating surfaces of the metal bits that make up this insulated pass through connection are severe enough to insulate. I have had to grind the head off the rivet and separate and clean ALL the metal contact surfaces to get it to work again. The rest of the horn internal parts are rarely the issue. 2 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/67793-bench-testing-horns-1972-240z/#findComment-644704 Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveJ Posted August 30, 2022 Share #4 Posted August 30, 2022 36 minutes ago, zKars said: I’ve found pretty much the same issue with about a dozen non-working horns now, and it relates to corrosion in the power connection terminal where it passes through the body of the horn. You can clean both sides of it thoroughly inside and out, even by sand blasting, and it will look like a million bucks but will not pass current. The corrosion between the touching mating surfaces of the metal bits that make up this insulated pass through connection are severe enough to insulate. I have had to grind the head off the rivet and separate and clean ALL the metal contact surfaces to get it to work again. The rest of the horn internal parts are rarely the issue. Yep, that's what I saw, too. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/67793-bench-testing-horns-1972-240z/#findComment-644706 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jughead Posted September 20, 2022 Author Share #5 Posted September 20, 2022 Thanks all. I just bought denso. horns and installed them. Not OEM, but i now have a working horn which is awesome!. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/67793-bench-testing-horns-1972-240z/#findComment-645642 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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