Time to replace the rear suspension bushings in the 260Z

[SteveJ]

@Captain Obvious, it was a good thing I got under the car again. I hit the bolts with a torque wrench and found many could use the extra torques. 

[SteveJ]

Doing the wholly incorrect and dubious accuracy method of having the straight edge wedged against the tires, there is hardly any difference between the front and back of the rear tires. 

It has to be a significant improvement from before. 

Thanks for the guidance and advice @Jeff G 78 & @Captain Obvious. 

[Zed Head]

There's always the hands off the wheel test.  Find a level road, get up to cruise speed, take your hands off the wheel - see what happens - hit the brakes - see what happens.  If nothing bad happens then everything's right .

[SteveJ]

4 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

There's always the hands off the wheel test.  Find a level road, get up to cruise speed, take your hands off the wheel - see what happens - hit the brakes - see what happens.  If nothing bad happens then everything's right .

It felt pretty good on the road today. It actually seemed more quiet than before. I don't find that surprising considering how bad the old bushings were. Also, I'm pretty confident that going underneath with a torque wrench today took care of securing the control arms adequately. I shot video of the process. I just have to edit the video now.

[Jeff G 78]

Did you replace the front diff mount?  They are usually ripped.  The RT mount along with a new OE mount makes a nice combo.

[Daluvian]

I got a  eagle eye hunter alignment rack I had a slightly toe in on driver rear I’m gonna try and see if shifting some stuff able to correct toe. I’ve done it on other cars before shifting the subframe to correct camber and toe it will be interesting to see if I can do the same on the Z. If anyone needs alignments in San Diego I’m very good at them and got the best rack on the market 

Edited September 8, 2022 by Daluvian

[SteveJ]

5 hours ago, Jeff G 78 said:

Did you replace the front diff mount?  They are usually ripped.  The RT mount along with a new OE mount makes a nice combo.

It actually looked to be in good shape. It might have been replaced by a previous owner. 

[jonathanrussell]

@SteveJ ... if you decide to use original rubber for the mustache bar bushings, I have a tool you can use in your press to bend the metal properly into place. If you decide to go with polly, leave the sleeves from the original mustache bar bushings in place. Just burn out / cut out the rubber.

 

Edited September 8, 2022 by jonathanrussell
accuracy

[SteveJ]

11 minutes ago, jonathanrussell said:

@SteveJ ... if you decide to use original rubber for the mustache bar bushings, I have a tool you can use in your press to bend the metal properly into place. If you decide to go with polly, leave the sleeves from the original mustache bar bushings in place. Just burn out / cut out the rubber.

 

Thanks, Jonathan. I'll try to keep that in mind...and see what I have left over from buying bushings for the 240Z 25 years ago.

[Jeff G 78]

6 hours ago, SteveJ said:

It actually looked to be in good shape. It might have been replaced by a previous owner. 

I'd still install the RT to get rid of the useless leather strap.  It will keep your OE mount from ripping.

[Patcon]

9 hours ago, jonathanrussell said:

@SteveJ ... if you decide to use original rubber for the mustache bar bushings, I have a tool you can use in your press to bend the metal properly into place. If you decide to go with polly, leave the sleeves from the original mustache bar bushings in place. Just burn out / cut out the rubber.

 

It is my understanding that oem rubber mustache bar bushings are NLA

[Daluvian]

There is a mustache bar on eBay right now with brand new ones better jump on it was gonna buy it but after looking at mine we’re in great shape https://www.ebay.com/itm/265669468613?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=YmFO8ONHQg6&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=5tQC030BQXm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Edited September 9, 2022 by Daluvian