1972 240z Ahmeter / Fuel gauge replacement

[Johnny wick]

Still uncertain if this ahmeter is reading correctly. I know fuel does read correctly. 

Asides from this, the plastic lens is turning so i need to use some kind of glue to stick it as the factory. 

WHich is the safest method for removing the gauge without damaging any wire or leds? SHould i remove it through the glove box or through the front air conditioner panel? 

[yippi427]

Remove the gauge after moving the heater control panel away from dash... the 4 heater cables has to be disconnected from the heater box before the control panel can be pull far enough. You will be able to get to the amp/fuel gauge and clock and oil/temp gauge through the opening.

Edited November 16, 2022 by yippi427

[emccallum]

 

This is what it looks like from the rear. Make sure you disconnect the battery. If you zoom in you can see the one bolt that holds each gauge in place. HTH

[Johnny wick]

On 11/15/2022 at 9:30 PM, yippi427 said:

Remove the gauge after moving the heater control panel away from dash... the 4 heater cables has to be disconnected from the heater box before the control panel can be pull far enough. You will be able to get to the amp/fuel gauge and clock and oil/temp gauge through the opening.

Yes but what is the correct procedure to remove this gauge? i dont have any heater box. This was removed when the gen mini air conditioner kit was installed under the dash. How many cables will i need to disconnect to remove the gauge without damaging any cable or causing any shorts? 

[yippi427]

Do you still have a heater control panel  with sliding levers like the pic? If you do not you still have to remove your present panel to get to the gauges. The amp/fuel gauge is secure with 1 screw, the gauge has 3 wire harness with plug that plug into dash harness and 2 wires with connect to the amp gauge.0

[yippi427]

If you look at the pic of the back of dash posted by emccallum ..look at the amp/fuel gauge it is attach with 1 screw to a bracket. Remove the 1 screw and the gauge will be ready to come out after you unplug the 3 wire plug and 2 amp meter wires connected by nuts. Remember to disconnect your negative battery cable before working under your dash alway.

Edited November 17, 2022 by yippi427

[Johnny wick]

I guess mine is fried also. Needle is stuck at 3/4 positive side. If you turn the engine off it still remains there. Any clues on how to solve this problem.  The fuel section works perfectly. Its a pitty. 

Edited November 18, 2022 by jalexquijano

[Johnny wick]

On 11/17/2022 at 2:03 AM, yippi427 said:

Do you still have a heater control panel  with sliding levers like the pic? If you do not you still have to remove your present panel to get to the gauges. The amp/fuel gauge is secure with 1 screw, the gauge has 3 wire harness with plug that plug into dash harness and 2 wires with connect to the amp gauge.0

How do you disconnect this upper 2 boots from the heater vent access. I have one spare out of the car and its quite a challenge to remove them. Imagine from the inside of the dash where its dark and just relying on braille system?

[emccallum]

Once you remove the screw that holds the gauge in place, you should have enough slack to give you a little better access. Those boots can be stiff and tough to release after 45 years

[siteunseen]

Have you tried putting strong tape rolled outwards sticking to the ahm lens, pulling it out off the needle? I bought one that some dip $^!# tapped on the lense of the oil pressure gauge and knocked it down onto the needle causing it to be all funked up. After I got the lense off the needle it was showing good oil pressure.

[Johnny wick]

27 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

Have you tried putting strong tape rolled outwards sticking to the ahm lens, pulling it out off the needle? I bought one that some dip $^!# tapped on the lense of the oil pressure gauge and knocked it down onto the needle causing it to be all funked up. After I got the lense off the needle it was showing good oil pressure.

The problem is not with the fuel gauge, it is on the ampmeter. Needle is stuck at the end of the positivr side as shown in the picture. I even disconnect the battery poles twice and the needle is stuck. I banged the dash and nothing. I am removing the instrument at the shop where they fixed the short. Idiots. I guess they fried the circuit somehow.

[Yarb]

Get a small suction cup. Lick the inside of the cup and gently see if it adheres to the glass. Once pulled forward see if the gauge goes back to normal. In a shop you never know where there hands are going especially if you’re working under a Z dash. A finger or thumb may have pushed that glass in. My two cents…