SteveJ Posted December 27, 2022 Share #1 Posted December 27, 2022 I had to replace the master and slave cylinders on the 240Z, so I shot some video. I have to put it together now. Unfortunately one of the cameras wasn't recording when I thought it was. I need to check the other camera, as well. On the other hand, I did try my hand at reverse bleeding on the clutch, pushing the fluid up through the slave. It took a while, but the reservoir on the master did fill. So I have to check tomorrow to see if I have good clutch feel. Eventually, I'll get the video put together, too. 2 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/68063-reverse-bleeding-the-clutch/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveJ Posted December 27, 2022 Author Share #2 Posted December 27, 2022 Well, I shot some video to watch the slave cylinder while I pushed on the clutch. No pressure, and no movement. I guess I'll try again tomorrow. 😒 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/68063-reverse-bleeding-the-clutch/#findComment-648687 Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveJ Posted December 27, 2022 Author Share #3 Posted December 27, 2022 After another failed attempt to bleed, I consulted a friend who confirmed my worst fear. The actuating rod on the MC was too short. Why was that my worst fear? It means I have to try to put the clevis pin back in the *#&$ hole again. I'm not sure my body can take it. I swapped the rods between the old and new MC and bolted the new MC back into place...again. Now to go back out to the garage and take my lumps as I wrestle to put the clevis pin back in. *Sigh* 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/68063-reverse-bleeding-the-clutch/#findComment-648703 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted December 27, 2022 Share #4 Posted December 27, 2022 I have mentioned in the past a method that I devised. Tie a long piece of thread through the hole in the clevis pin. Tie the other end of the thread to a piece of thin flexible wire. Poke the wire up and through the clevis pin hole in the pedal, pull it through with the thread, then pull the pin up to the hole by the thread as far as you can get it. Then use a screwdriver or your fingers to maneuver the clevis pin through the hole. The thread allows you to apply some pull once you get it aimed. My pedal box was mangled from a PO who had similar problems and must have taken out his frustrations with a hammer and pliers. And I still couldn't get my hands up there easily. 4 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/68063-reverse-bleeding-the-clutch/#findComment-648704 Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveJ Posted December 28, 2022 Author Share #5 Posted December 28, 2022 1 hour ago, Zed Head said: I have mentioned in the past a method that I devised. Tie a long piece of thread through the hole in the clevis pin. Tie the other end of the thread to a piece of thin flexible wire. Poke the wire up and through the clevis pin hole in the pedal, pull it through with the thread, then pull the pin up to the hole by the thread as far as you can get it. Then use a screwdriver or your fingers to maneuver the clevis pin through the hole. The thread allows you to apply some pull once you get it aimed. My pedal box was mangled from a PO who had similar problems and must have taken out his frustrations with a hammer and pliers. And I still couldn't get my hands up there easily. I love it. Now if I could remember that the next time I remove one. Fortunately reinstalling the clevis pin was easier with the car on Quickjacks. I could kneel down next to the car and look in as opposed having to crawl into the footwell on my back. I did a gravity bleed this time and saw a nice slug of air get pushed through. After that the wife operated the clutch pedal while I finished the bleeding process. I think there is good pedal feel with noticeable travel by the clutch fork, and I'll test tomorrow to confirm. 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/68063-reverse-bleeding-the-clutch/#findComment-648705 Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveJ Posted January 2, 2023 Author Share #6 Posted January 2, 2023 Yesterday, when I put the car on the ground and tested the clutch, it had some resistance, but it wouldn't go into gear. I talked to my friend who suggested extending the rod some more, and he told me how to do it without removing the clevis pin and pulling out the master. I used a set of pliers to turn the actuator rod about 1/32 of a turn at a time until I had it about all of the way it would travel on the yoke. Sure enough, the clutch would disengage. Today, I was at a car meet, and a friend showed up in his GT-350. He said he was going to bring his 240Z, but the clutch pedal went straight to the floor. Doesn't that sound familiar? That inspired me to edit the video I shot, and I shot a couple of more snippets for it today to go more in depth on the rod length and to add a blurb on @Zed Head's solution for the clevis pin. Since I didn't cut much out of the process, the video is long (over an hour), but I'm hoping it helps someone in the future. I'll post a link tomorrow after it's online. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/68063-reverse-bleeding-the-clutch/#findComment-648859 Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveJ Posted January 2, 2023 Author Share #7 Posted January 2, 2023 Here's the video on changing the master and slave cylinders. I hope it helps someone in the future. 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/68063-reverse-bleeding-the-clutch/#findComment-648869 Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveJ Posted January 3, 2023 Author Share #8 Posted January 3, 2023 @Zed Head, I forgot to mention that in the video I described your method for getting the clevis pin back into place. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/68063-reverse-bleeding-the-clutch/#findComment-648912 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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