Richie G Posted October 24, 2023 Author Share #25 Posted October 24, 2023 @SteveJ its a 71. I'm a bit of a newbie but to me the door switch has to be providing ground not power (similar to many other non Z cars). I would think this has to be true because my passenger side switch only has 1 wire (other dangling) and the switch body is grounded to the door frame by contact. That side works just fine so if the purpose of the door switch was to provide power up to the light how could it be getting power there? When the switch is depressed it must be making contact internally and then sending body ground up to the light right? If so, I would assume the other side works the same because again i only have two wires on that one and this time on driver side both are connected, 1 to light providing body ground (works fine) the other providing body ground to the buzzer via the key switch (no workie). I had a 71 wiring diagram and I think this confirms it if you take the viewpoint of the buzzer. the yellow line traces all the way back to fuse panel (ties in a couple of places to various other colors) and the red line via the key switch terms at the door switch which would be the grounding to enable the door buzzer right? I'll try to pull the door switch later and see if one of the wires is bad or not all the way connected or something. run some continuity tests if i can. I'm going through all this trouble to eventually just disable it anyway but I like to know how things work and at least have the option for me or the next guy. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/68628-repairing-buzzer-wires-from-ignition/?page=3#findComment-658581 Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveJ Posted October 24, 2023 Share #26 Posted October 24, 2023 Okay, I was going to look at the earlier wiring diagrams next. Every year Z has some wiring nuances. So you should have the 2 wire door switch, and both wires should ground to the switch with the door open. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/68628-repairing-buzzer-wires-from-ignition/?page=3#findComment-658582 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarb Posted October 24, 2023 Share #27 Posted October 24, 2023 Wonder where my memory was thinking 3 wires on the driver side. Falling apart I guess😂😂 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/68628-repairing-buzzer-wires-from-ignition/?page=3#findComment-658584 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richie G Posted October 24, 2023 Author Share #28 Posted October 24, 2023 @SteveJ thanks for confirming will get to checking. @Yarb I think your memory isn't all that bad lol. When I did some research on this site I did see some pictures of three wire door switches probably for the diagram and cars that Steve was mentioning just not mine. 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/68628-repairing-buzzer-wires-from-ignition/?page=3#findComment-658585 Share on other sites More sharing options...
HusseinHolland Posted October 24, 2023 Share #29 Posted October 24, 2023 1 hour ago, Yarb said: Wonder where my memory was thinking 3 wires on the driver side. Falling apart I guess😂😂 75 has 3 wires - at least my 4/75 does 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/68628-repairing-buzzer-wires-from-ignition/?page=3#findComment-658588 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted October 24, 2023 Share #30 Posted October 24, 2023 (edited) 7 hours ago, HusseinHolland said: Going OT - that is a very good idea. Do you recall offhand how you wired it? Buzzes when key removed w/parking light circuit? I think that I tapped the power wire to the headlight switch and ran a lead cut the wire to the buzzer power supply side, and replaced it with the new lead. When the door is closed there's no ground so no buzz, when it's open the buzzer gets current if the lights are left on. I drive all of my vehicles with the lights on in the daytime so it was useful. Edited October 24, 2023 by Zed Head Modified description 1 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/68628-repairing-buzzer-wires-from-ignition/?page=3#findComment-658594 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted October 24, 2023 Share #31 Posted October 24, 2023 The diagram is way back at the end of the BE chapter. Here's 1976. Here's the description. It does the interior light too. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/68628-repairing-buzzer-wires-from-ignition/?page=3#findComment-658597 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richie G Posted October 25, 2023 Author Share #32 Posted October 25, 2023 Side question for anyone while I wait to go do the testing. Does anyone have the exact model / specs of the original turn signal relay, the ones that have a mounting bracket? I', thinking they are the silver kind, definitely not heavy duty (those are for hazards) but I can't seem to settle on 23Wx2+3.4W or 23Wx3+3.4 W for the turn signal kind? ive seen some of each and they are both listed as 12.8V and 85 cpm but not sure what load that is based off of etc and what my 71 would put out. I assume the heavier wattage would just slow down the cpm if its the wrong kind? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/68628-repairing-buzzer-wires-from-ignition/?page=3#findComment-658603 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarb Posted October 25, 2023 Share #33 Posted October 25, 2023 @SteveJI think you mentioned in an earlier post of a new flasher that’s available that a few folks have tried weather they are using standard bulbs or LED. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/68628-repairing-buzzer-wires-from-ignition/?page=3#findComment-658606 Share on other sites More sharing options...
HusseinHolland Posted October 25, 2023 Share #34 Posted October 25, 2023 (edited) 3 hours ago, Zed Head said: I think that I tapped the power wire to the headlight switch and ran a lead cut the wire to the buzzer power supply side, and replaced it with the new lead. When the door is closed there's no ground so no buzz, when it's open the buzzer gets current if the lights are left on. I drive all of my vehicles with the lights on in the daytime so it was useful. I prefer to drive with at least the parking lights on, so same deal - I have left the lights on by accident several times already, including today when I went out for coffee on my "lunch" break (10:30am - I'm a high school art teacher). I'll replace the feed to the buzzer switch with a tap from the parking light feed at the combination switch. Edited October 25, 2023 by HusseinHolland Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/68628-repairing-buzzer-wires-from-ignition/?page=3#findComment-658607 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted October 25, 2023 Share #35 Posted October 25, 2023 Just realized that I should have wrote "from" or after the headlight switch, not to. Otherwise it would buzz whenever the door was open. Any wire that gets power only when the lights are on. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/68628-repairing-buzzer-wires-from-ignition/?page=3#findComment-658608 Share on other sites More sharing options...
HusseinHolland Posted October 25, 2023 Share #36 Posted October 25, 2023 (edited) 2 minutes ago, Zed Head said: Just realized that I should have wrote "from" or after the headlight switch, not to. Otherwise it would buzz whenever the door was open. Any wire that gets power only when the lights are on. I assumed that was what you meant. I'll use the park light circuit, that covers any exterior lighting. Edited October 25, 2023 by HusseinHolland 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/68628-repairing-buzzer-wires-from-ignition/?page=3#findComment-658610 Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorman7
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now