MH77280Z Posted Friday at 04:13 AM Author Share #25 Posted Friday at 04:13 AM Heater valve is manual and can be opened with the temp knob. I assume i need to open the vacuum water co*k as that's the area which needs to be tested? how do u get vacuum without running the car? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/69254-280z-water-removal-sequence/?page=3#findComment-674958 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarb Posted Friday at 12:35 PM Share #26 Posted Friday at 12:35 PM You do not get vacuum. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/69254-280z-water-removal-sequence/?page=3#findComment-674962 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted Friday at 04:33 PM Share #27 Posted Friday at 04:33 PM The system pressure will equalize without opening the valves, there's coolant on both sides. If you start the engine and let it get to temperature you'll generate pressure. The main concern would be that if there is a leak, it will be hot coolant instead of cold. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/69254-280z-water-removal-sequence/?page=3#findComment-674967 Share on other sites More sharing options...
MH77280Z Posted Friday at 05:39 PM Author Share #28 Posted Friday at 05:39 PM 11 minutes ago, Zed Head said: The system pressure will equalize without opening the valves, there's coolant on both sides. If you start the engine and let it get to temperature you'll generate pressure. The main concern would be that if there is a leak, it will be hot coolant instead of cold. I am thinking to put like 1G coolant in the system before testing? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/69254-280z-water-removal-sequence/?page=3#findComment-674968 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted Friday at 06:02 PM Share #29 Posted Friday at 06:02 PM What testing method will you be using? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/69254-280z-water-removal-sequence/?page=3#findComment-674969 Share on other sites More sharing options...
MH77280Z Posted Friday at 06:06 PM Author Share #30 Posted Friday at 06:06 PM https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/evertough/tools---equipment/rental-tools/air-conditioning---cooling-rental-tools/12095d53bcad/rental-tools-evertough-radiator-and-cap-test-kit/ren1/67085 I was thinking of renting this...put 1G of coolant and get the pressure up to whatever is on the radiator cap and see if it holds up? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/69254-280z-water-removal-sequence/?page=3#findComment-674970 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted Friday at 06:17 PM Share #31 Posted Friday at 06:17 PM That's a lot of money for a one-time test. Why not just fill it with water, start the engine, and see what happens? Worst case you spill some water in the cabin. Put a towel under the valves and cleanup should be easy. 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/69254-280z-water-removal-sequence/?page=3#findComment-674971 Share on other sites More sharing options...
MH77280Z Posted Friday at 06:40 PM Author Share #32 Posted Friday at 06:40 PM 22 minutes ago, Zed Head said: That's a lot of money for a one-time test. Why not just fill it with water, start the engine, and see what happens? Worst case you spill some water in the cabin. Put a towel under the valves and cleanup should be easy. The test tool is free, Orielly's rent tools for free. 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/69254-280z-water-removal-sequence/?page=3#findComment-674972 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted Friday at 06:46 PM Share #33 Posted Friday at 06:46 PM Should work fine. If there's no leak you don't really need to add coolant. The ability to hold pressure will tell you. But if it doesn't hold pressure then you'll need to add coolant to see where it's leaking from. Unless you have good ears and can hear the air hissing out. I'm going to guess though that you might have problems getting the cap to fit correctly. Just the odds, the right size and fit might not be in the kit. You might get lucky though. 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/69254-280z-water-removal-sequence/?page=3#findComment-674973 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted Saturday at 04:32 AM Share #34 Posted Saturday at 04:32 AM (edited) If it wont hold air pressure, a spray bottle with soapy water might help You only need about 15#s of pressure for testing Edited Saturday at 04:33 AM by Patcon 1 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/69254-280z-water-removal-sequence/?page=3#findComment-674986 Share on other sites More sharing options...
MH77280Z Posted Saturday at 05:13 AM Author Share #35 Posted Saturday at 05:13 AM 40 minutes ago, Patcon said: If it wont hold air pressure, a spray bottle with soapy water might help You only need about 15#s of pressure for testing If I hook up this thing to the radiator cap, dont you think pressure wont hold due to the overflow tank not sealed? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/69254-280z-water-removal-sequence/?page=3#findComment-674997 Share on other sites More sharing options...
MH77280Z Posted Saturday at 07:32 AM Author Share #36 Posted Saturday at 07:32 AM (edited) This is exactly what is going on what is shown in the video, everything was nice and tight. The old seal inside the vacuum **** is no good. That’s why the older one was also rusted. It only need a new rubber seal as well. It leaks between the two metal mating surfaces as the coolant goes around the damaged seal. Heater valve was holding nice. No leak there. There goes $30 worth of coolant. Edited Saturday at 07:37 AM by MH77280Z Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/topic/69254-280z-water-removal-sequence/?page=3#findComment-674999 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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