How bad is it?

[MikeW]

I finally got up the nerve to pull up my carpets to see how bad the floorpan rust was. Using a 500W worklamp for heat I was able to pull up all of the tar mat and used Xylene to clean up most of the residue. I then used an abrasive disk on my drill to clean up as must of the surface rust as I could get to.

I've attached a photo of the results with areas of concern marked. The red circles a few areas that are rusted clean through. The green circles an area of relatively deep surface rust with lots of craters. The rust showing around the perimeter seems fairly minor; I just couldn't clean it up with the sanding disk.

The rounded humps along the top of the frame rail seems to be in really good shape as do the sloped panels near the firewall - even the seam where they meet the floor. The worst rust is certainly in the low areas where water probably accumulated. Even right next to the holes I can't push a small, sharp, flat bladed screwdriver through. The only place I can push it through is in the deepest of the craters and even that requires a little effort.

Since many of you have been here before, what's the recommended approach to repairing this? I'm hoping I don't need replacement floorpans but I'm guessing a simple coat of POR15 wouldn't be enough - or would it? How about POR15 putty? Could I use that to fill in the craters and cracks?

[2ManyZs]

Since the areas are pretty small by comparison to some of the pics we've seen:cross-eye I'd suggest cutting out the rusted area and weld in a small patch panel. Then, POR it top and bottom. If the holes were a bit smaller and not as elongated, especially the rear one, I would have sugggested a coat of POR and their matt to repair it. Cut the holes out to where you are starting to get into unmolested metal and weld a patch panel over it, or cut it out to fit and seam weld in in.

The POR putty is more for small diameter holes, such as screw holes, or like I did, used it to fill some of the holes in the T/C pocket the factory left open.

I wouldn't worry about the drain holes, as long as you have at least one that you can use you should be OK. Some of the problems I think are directly atrributed to the drain holes themselves, if the rubber plug allows any water under the lip of the plug, it holds it in place and allows the rust to form.

[St.stephen]

ahhh, thats nothing!!! If you like I can send a photo of the worst case scenario being my old parts car. You'll walk away feeling very good about the condition of your floors.

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by MikeW

.....................The rounded humps along the top of the frame rail seems to be in really good shape as do the sloped panels near the firewall - even the seam where they meet the floor. The worst rust is certainly in the low areas where water probably accumulated. Even right next to the holes I can't push a small, sharp, flat bladed screwdriver through. The only place I can push it through is in the deepest of the craters and even that requires a little effort.

Since many of you have been here before, what's the recommended approach to repairing this? I'm hoping I don't need replacement floorpans but I'm guessing a simple coat of POR15 wouldn't be enough - or would it? How about POR15 putty? Could I use that to fill in the craters and cracks?

I agree with 2ManyZs. You need to put in some new metal before doing any POR work. As is..... By the time you would finish with Marine CLean and Metal Ready prep work you would have significantly more "swiss-cheese" looking metal than you currently do. The Power Mesh fabric works good with a few small holes, but when it starts getting to larger areas like what you are facing you need more metal in there to maintain strength.

[dozer171]

looks much better than my floor pan! i wouldn't worry too much, weld a small panel over it, and use por15. is it just me, or is it almost always the passenger side that rots out with the floor pans???

[MikeW]

My driver's side is about the same but with the worst rust right beneath where your left heel rests when you're not on the clutch. I suppose wet shoes and the constant pressure in a relatively small area contributed to that.

So, the consensus seems to be to weld in small patch panels. Having never welded before is this something I should even bother attempting to do myself, i.e, go out and buy the smallest welder that will work and practice on scraps of metal? Or, should I try to find someone who can do it for me? From reading other messages here I gather that most "body" shops want to just slap on a repair panel and paint it as quickly as possible. How would I go about finding someone who could do this sort of job?

[bryantatem]

practicing on small pieces of metal will be good practice for you. AS far as a place to weld, I can't think of a better place than the floor. It is very well covered by the carpet and also from the outside. As far as having someone do it for you, try to find a mobile welding service or find a freind that knows how to weld. I am lucky, the local community college welding school is local to me and needs things to weld for class. Since I am not in a hurry, my car makes a good canidate. Cheap too.

-Bryan

[Z-point]

I would vote for the GOOD friend or a welding shop. I cannot weld too, and I am certainly not going to learn for just those small things.

We as hobbyists, we are looking up to this rust as to climbing a mountain. For a ‘ordinary’ welder or a person who does it often it is a piece of cake. Lunch time job!!

It amazes me always when I see an American floor, you know why? Always without rubber plugs. What would be worse; the water coming as flood through the holes. And does not go away that easily. OR a little water from wet shoes etc??

[MikeW]

Originally posted by Z-point

I would vote for the GOOD friend or a welding shop. I cannot weld too, and I am certainly not going to learn for just those small things.

Yeah, well, I don't know anyone who can weld so I guess I'll be paying someone.

It amazes me always when I see an American floor, you know why? Always without rubber plugs.

Just so you'll know I pulled out all of the plugs to avoid damaging them while scraping up the tar and sanding on the surface rust.