Hot fuse

[240ZMan]

I have a 73 340Z with a "new" fuse box. The previous owner had it replaced, but unfortunately one of the connections gets hot enough to burn a finger. I tried taking the box out and tapping the rivet/crimp with a 3/8" socket extension underneath and a drift on top, and it helped some, but it's still too hot for me to feel good about it. How have others dealt with this kind of problem?

The box is othewise in great shape (it should be - it looks brand new and from the receipts, it looks like he paid ~$200 - ouch!)

Thanks,

Daniel

[Victor Laury]

Third fuse down on the right side?

[240ZMan]

And it's the left side of the fuse.

Wow, that's amazing, how did you know!

[Bambikiller240]

These are a few of my favorite questions:

1. Which circuit is getting hot?
   
2. Have there been additional power demands added to that circuit (like H4 headlights, or a huge Stereo AMP, or ??)
   
3. Does it get hot only under certain conditions, or is it hot all the time?
   [/list=1]

[240ZMan]

1. I believe that fuse is for the rear taillights.

2. I haven't added any extra electrical (yet)

3. It only get's hot when I have the lights on which I guess is because that's the only time the tailights (not brake lights) are in use.

What do you think?

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by 240ZMan

What do you think?

Not being an Electrical wiz so I can only give basic suggestions.

Step one, clean ALL the connectors on that circuit (EVERY ONE OF THEM). Corrosion leads to poor connections which result in high current draws to complete the circuit.

Victor, or anyone else jump in, as we're reaching the limits of my electrical knowledge fast!

[240ZMan]

Perhaps I can add a bit more: the fuse clip on the hot side is not physically has tight as it is on other fuses. I had thought I might be able to tighten up the rivet by tapping it, and it helped some, but after a few months it seems to be getting worse again. I'm thinking of soldering it, but I hate the thought of possibly melting the plastic around it so I was hoping someone would have some other ideas.

I saw another thread that suggested cleaning the multifunction switch to reduce the load, but I didn't understand how dirty connectors would increase the current draw. It usually works just the opposite.

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by 240ZMan

I saw another thread that suggested cleaning the multifunction switch to reduce the load, but I didn't understand how dirty connectors would increase the current draw. It usually works just the opposite.

Sorry, I cannot explain it, it just does. Just like a dirty battery cable terminal can cause a no start condition, but you clean it and all is well.

[2ManyZs]

Before you do anything, take some emery cloth or fine steel wool and clean both fuse clips inside where the fuse contacts are, and replace the fuse with a brand new one. Sometimes that is the problem, little corrosion on an old fuse will cause it to get hot.

If that doesn't work, you'll need to check all the bulbs, contacts in the bulb holders and check the ground wires on the rear harness under the plastic tail light panel.

[Darrel]

I am just about to go through an extra fuse block for my '73. This is what I was looking for.

http://www.automedic.org/smzcc/tech_tips.htm then go down to fuse block.