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Eletrical problems, car won't turn over


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I recently grounded my battery against the valve cover, now I've replaced the battery but, I still can't get it to turn over. Another problem is that apparently the PO removed the fusible link that goes between the starter and the wiring harness (he had some 10 gauge wire that went from the starter and harness, don't laugh, it ran pretty good for 2 years like this!!) I'm almost at my wits end (I just hate electrical)below is what I've done or discovered.

1. New battery

2. checked and retightened the connections at the battery post, starter solenoid, and where it bolts to the block/tranny.

3. awaiting fusible link.

the interesting thing is that when I test the battery with my voltmeter it shows 12.7, 11.6 if I ground it anywhere besides the negative post,then I check the starter solenoid and it shows 0.3v with the key in the "on"position I'm not getting anything at the fuse box either. Is there someother place that I'm supposed to check?

Last but not least, just how many "fusible links" do '71 240z's have and where are they located??

Thanks for any imput on this matter!


That fusible link you are waiting for...that's the one that COMPLETELY disconnects the entire electrical system.

Wait for the fusible link for the repair, don't know if I would advise running the car with a coat hanger in it's place.

Enrique

I would wait to try again till you get the link , if you search in the forums I know someone had posted a way for testing the starter by using a wire to bypass the ignition. I used it to eliminate my starting issues, mine was a bad starter. Good luck

Yeah get a set of jumper leads connect one to the positive battery post, and touch the other end of it to the positive terminal on the starter motor solenoid. Thats the little cylinder thing on top of the starter motor.

This will crank the engine over, so be warned. Engine shouldnt run without a fusable link though.

These links have always created confusion. I've never been able to locate them or get any spec's on them. Hence, like most, if not all owners have had to resort to simply replacing them with a wire of similar gauge. Yes, I know that it isn't advisable, however if there are better ideas.........

If anyone knows at what amperage these links should blow, please let us know, at least at a minimum, a slow blow fuse of adequate awperage should suffice.

Check the wiring at the altermnator as well, the batery dump could have smoked it and the engine ground, if so you will be burning up your speedometer cable because it is the only electrical path from the engine to the body.

Well I finally found the link, and found out after replacing the battery that my prbolem was the negative connection to the block, once I cleaned up the cable end it fired right up, and my lights are much brighter!!

Thanks for your help!!

  • 3 weeks later...

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