Randalla

Thanks guys. Just found the post someone made showing the tool they made to trip the catch. Should have searched harder here. Thanks for your responses.

Just went to pull my hood release and the cable broke. Looks like it must have broke at the hood catch itself, so it is not readily accessible. Is there a work around to get the hood open from underneath so I can replace the cable??? Any help is much appreciated.

Thanks much guys! I thought it was somewhere in the 90's but could not find the actual years. I subsequently found a post somewhere else that said 1993-2002, but unsure if that's right or not. On my car the seals really fit perfectly, even the 45 degree angle. I seem to recall having to cut off about 8" for a perfect fit, and then as Chuck said, buried the seam under the kickplate. Was not aware (or had forgotten) that the rear door seals were longer. Makes sense that they would probably be in better shape than the front seals. Appreciate the assistance guys!

I installed these on my 1972 240Z 10 years ago and was very pleased with them. Trying to direct a friend who needs to replace his seals but can't for the life of me find what year Kia Sportage works. I seem to remember the ones on the front doors fit best. Anyone recall what year Sportage seals fit.

Steve, Good point on the inertia switch. Now thinking of going back to a mechanical fuel pump to avoid the need for an inertia switch and assuring lower fuel delivery pressure without a regulator. Thanks for the reminder.

The 280Z we are converting is a 1975. I've always been a huge SU fan and though some may make a case they are not as dependable, I've not actually found that to be the case. In fact when something needs to be addressed on the induction side, I'd much prefer the simpler diagnosing and repairs of SU's. When set up properly you can forget them for the most part. The pluses are they sound great, tip-in response is more lively, and the car is much more fun to drive. Admittedly, I'm biased having, owned over 20 early Z's with L-series engines and worked on countless others. Long live the SU's!

Wondering what, if any, issues I may have with this swap electrically. I've done this many times for 240Zs I've owned, but am unsure what other functions the ECU manages on a 280Z that I'll have to work around. I plan to manage fuel pressure with an inline regulator to compensate for the difference from 3-5 lbs. (carbs) to +30 lbs. (injection). Thanks for your help/thoughts.

Maybe I'll try running them in my Z to see if I notice a difference.

Thanks for weighing in Captain Obvious. Not sure I understand your response. At idle, the effect of the higher sitting piston would pull the needle further out of the jet tube allowing more fuel to be sucked out of the tube and across the bridge, correct? I.e. the same as raising engine speed with the idle screw. The material is definitely steel, as I tried to carefully file one of inserts flush with the bottom of the piston. The non-metallic chunk you reference is in exactly the same spot as the steel inserts in the pistons I have. Seems to be someone experimenting/modifying the stock inserts with larger diameter steel ones???

This is a first. I've probably rebuilt 60-80 Z SU carbs over the years, but have never seen this modification. These pistons were in a set of early, 4 screw carbs from a customer's 1970 240Z. As you can see in the pictures it appears someone drilled and inserted a short piece of steel rod into the bottom of each piston. The end protrudes below the bottom of the piston raising the piston perhaps 1/32" off the bridge. The net effect would richen the mixture significantly, similar to dropping the needle from the piston. The piece is small enough that I wouldn't think the extra weight would impact throttle tip in but I can't be sure. Anybody else seen this modification before?

Not a fun job, but got it just about wrapped up. I did have to drain the radiator, remove the lower hose, remove the alternator, and completely unbolt the large compressor bracket. It was a two person job to hold the compressor up while lining up all the bolt holes to re-attach the large steel bracket. Now that I've done it, I could do the job in half the time (isn't that always the way?). A fair amount of time was spent assessing how to tackle the job. Thanks for your input guys.

I have the compressor and bracket separated but still no room to get the bottom bolt. Looks like I'll have to go in from the bottom, necessitating draining radiator, removing lower hose and removing alternator. Arghhh!

I have the compressor lose but there is very little ability to move it more than an inch or two, not enough to allow access to the final nut.

Working on a customer's 1973 240Z with early AC compressor. Looks like removing the bad fuel pump and installing a new one will require substantial disassembly. Is there an easier way to swap the pump without disassembling half the car? Got off the two nuts on the top of the pump but can't find a way to reach the bottom one.

Thanks Bonzi Lon. I wonder if anyone has ever flowed these different intakes and if there's enough difference to matter for anyone doing a performance build. For those of you with Rebello motors, which intake did they use on your motor's build???