71Nissan240Z

It's worth it. It makes your car look new. I bought some bleish units euro style for 399. I couldn't pass it up. I can't even tell where exactly the blemish is.

Isn't best to just get some z therapy carburetors? I'm getting 24 mpg and that's a somewhat rich tune with sm needles on a zx engine. I almost bought a EFI Z a while ago but not having a modern fuel injection setup is cumbersome when things get old. I'm a mechanic part time and I deal with efi all the time but I have a powerful scanner which makes life easier. However, I can still find myself for hours on my laptop scratching my head with all the sensor monitoring in front of my face. Good luck..but seriously think about just junking that efi if you can afford some carburetors. In my 5 years of running z therapy carbs I only had to tune is twice. Once when I installed them. And the second time was when I did a $^!# load of ignition mods and camshaft. Otherwise it fires up on second or third rotation of the engine. A lot ppl are surprised by how good it runs when I tell them it's got carbs.

It seems like if the engine has never been touched it will break head bolts. All of the heads I've pulled at the junkyard (about ten ) only one of them I broke a bolt and it appeared to be all original and never been apart.

Excellent. Thank you zed head!! I'll keep an update to what I do.

. All I'm asking is how I can modify my distributor to run more initial timing without going too far over on my total timing. I heard about jb welding weights and other things...what I want is someone who races these cars to share with me how to do this mod. That's all I'm really asking for. For example...I want to run 15 degrees at idle...but I can't because my total timing would be way over 40 degrees. There is a mod to reduce the amount of total advance so u can run more intial. I'm not talking about recurving the distributor which involves changing how fast full advance approaches at any given rpm. Spark plug gap http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/ignition.html I followed his advice. Argue with him not me .

The guy that stole this should be dropped by helicopter straight into Afghanistan with the word thief carved into his forehead. I hope to god you catch whoever is involved. What a beautiful car I'm really sorry.

Did u verify the line isn't clogged? I mean the one from the engine bay to the tank? Sometimes critters will crawl in there and nest if it's left open to elements. Disconnect from the tank side and run compressed air to see if u can blow anything out. Your tank won't explode...it will implode. For now leave the cap a little loose and do not fill the tank very much past half.

It would help to post the pictures here as I cannot see them without registering to there site

Oh god. That's terrible.

The 5.3 gm engine is wonderful. EXCEPT the damn head must be removed to get to the hydrolic lifters. Mine are a little noisey in my tahoe and I have decided to just deal with it. They're not clogged I just think the check valve isn't sealing inside. I'm the original owner of the 04 tahoe. Always used awesome oil. Like motul or something the like of since day one. As far as the crank. In japan I heard they shorten it a bit to help with resonance. Perhaps that's the reason for the failure. I've never built one of these before so what the he'll do I know . I do know some of the trade secrets tho.

No it runs better to 7,000 rpms. Not just idle. I understand ionization etc....There's no real way to tell if it's stressing my ignition system without using a scope and looking as the signal differences the wires are creating. From what I can see the cap looks fine and there's no issues as of now. This has all been done by our forefathers and z home recommends it so I'm going to do it as long as someone with way more experience than me did it. The issue I'm having is my total timing sucks. My ignition system is great and brand new. However I really do accept all of your guys input. Thanks a bunch!

N42 from the maxima or the 280? I've got the n42 off a maxima but I'm not sure If I wanna replace my current p79. I've seen pictures of rods bolts and caps cracking on these engines. What rpm are u spinning up?

That's why ilk never install a 300 hp l28. I would love it too much. But I'm wondering what happened to throw rods through the block. What cylinder heads are u guys running?? I agree...The stock l28 is pretty slow. But the sounds it makes keep me addicted. That's the problem. I'm hoping to get 210 220 crank out of mine.

D612-53. And then there's a number below that:810

How bad did you blow the engine? Maybe you can use the parts for another engine and maybe regain some of the performance. That's why I'm against a race engine...It's too heart breaking if you ever blow it up. The engine I put together is slow but if I blow it I don't care. Sorry for the loss man.