Namerow

The 'B' transmission's design places the base of the shift lever further forward relative to the front face of the bellhousing, resulting in a number of complications when a B unit is installed in a car that was designed for the A unit... - Base of shift lever hits the front edge of the cutout in the transmission tunnel when 1st or 3rd is selected. - Shifter knob comes too close to the HVAC fascia when 1st or 3rd is selected. I'm curious to know how this issue was handled by the dealer who did the B-for-A transmission swap in your car. p.s. I like the wood cradle that you built to support the car. I know of another Z owner who built a rotisserie from wood.

Mounting studs and hardware should be stainless steel. Too bad the same can't be done for the screws that fasten the lens to the housing.

A dry cleaner's bag works well for this purpose. Also: The seatback upholstery is easier to install if you do the job outside in direct, afternoon sunlight (solar heating helps to soften the vinyl).

I agree... although baby-boom demographics will probably keep the torch burning for at least another 5 years.

Thanks for taking the time to create and post these photos. Maybe I'm just getting old*, but Photo #2 is confusing. Did the rubber really sit under the weatherstrip before both were pushed down over the inch strip? Looking at the photo, it seems hard to believe that the weatherstrip would be capable of generating enough clamping force. (* I plead guilty, as I'm sure many others will, of just pulling the rotted old stuff off without giving much thought to how it actually worked.)

It would be fascinating to see a video showing how the rear glass was installed at the factory back in the day.

If only the SU's designer had included an external adjustment screw for setting the float level.

It's a Velcro strip that helps hold the spare wheel cover (pressboard) in place.

I wonder if it's similar to this dental sandblasting unit?... https://www.vaniman.com/product/sandstorm-mobile-io-80141/ US$540 - ships from manufacturer in California

Let's be careful here. Jalex posted a photo of the choke cable for one carb, illustrating two cable screws: the #1 screw (upper screw in the photo) is the one that clamps the choke cable's outer casing to the carb; the #2 screw (bottom screw in the photo) is the one that clamps the choke cable wire to the choke cable linkage. The way I read it, he was asking whether he should loosen both the #1 and #2 screws on both carbs (which, of course, would lead to brand new problems). So, JAlex: If you're reading this, when Mark Maras tells you to loosen 'both screws', he means that you should loosen the #2 screw on both the front and rear carbs. Do not loosen the #1 screw.

Great write-up and photo coverage. As someone who also lives in the north-east, it's great to see a project like this that looks 'real' in relation to my own experience (rotted wood, old timber, uneven concrete, dirt, and leaves). Hope you enjoy your upgraded workspace. Epoxied floors?

There are two hammers visible in photo #4. The one on the left would normally qualify as a 'BFH', but it looks puny when compared to the one on the right. That one appears to be a shaped piece of concrete with a handle. Did you make it yourself?

Nice to be able to check off three items on three different cars, all in one day!

That same storm dropped over 4" of rain in Toronto.

Can anyone recommend a product that would be a reliable, long-term solution for sealing a cracked gas filler neck? The vehicle in question is my friend's 10-year-old Hyundai Elantra.